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Goldfinch 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: Thomas Dodge
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: thomas dodge on Sep 17, 2016

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Start moves

Description 

An absolute banger. Start with hands in the obvious horizontal crack and smear feet, make a big move to the jug on the lip. It is possible to dead point, but for style points go for a 3 points off dyno. Cross right hand onto a sloppy jug and move right and left hand out to sloppy crimps. Throw up a heal and rock over into a committing move to a sloppy crack (watch out for the small tree), the rest of the top out is easy, but don't fall.

The top out of this route needs to be further cleaned, still very doable but it definitely gets sketchy

  • This was formally named "Pretty girls with poor eye contact"

Location 

Directly about 50m behind "overlooked" on the obvious overhung face

Protection 

Some pads


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Goldfinch

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By thomas dodge
Sep 22, 2016

Thinking the grade is about V3, but someone told me higher, it would be great if people could suggest ratings
By Graham O.
Sep 22, 2016

I love problems like this... I'll be sure to get on this soon!

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