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Goldenfingers Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Bernadette T,S 
Arete Juliete T 
Fool's Gold T 
Garden of Gordon T 
Goldbagger T,S 
Golden Crack T 
Golden Flake T 
Golden Oldie S 
Golden Worm T 
Goldenfingers T,TR 
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 
OtherWorld T,TR 
Stone They Rejected S 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: L. Ellison, B. Smoot 1982
Page Views: 2,105
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Goldenfingers w/o lines


On the right face of the wall you will see a finger crack that starts about 10-15 feet above the ground. This is your goal. Startalmost below the bolted line to the right, attain the leftward diagonalling cracks and move left until you can make the finger crack. The bolt protects the crux. However, the funnest part is the lunge for the flake near the top. I later tried to climb the direct line and realized why you start right.


Large slings for trees at the top. 1 draw for the climb, and TCU's for the crack.

Photos of Goldenfingers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Goldenfingers from the base
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Goldenfingers from the base
Rock Climbing Photo: 1)  Stone They Rejected  2)  Goldenfingers
BETA PHOTO: 1) Stone They Rejected 2) Goldenfingers
Rock Climbing Photo: Goldfingers crack
BETA PHOTO: Goldfingers crack

Comments on Goldenfingers Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 15, 2005

Both soloed for the FA, then later drilled by unknowing parties. How 'bout them apples?! Go climb Stone they rejected and ponder 4 classing that crux. proud. And an all together different era. A set that goes clank, for sure.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 18, 2006

Solo FA's--Man that's Sick!!

I love the routes on this wall. I come back to them every year. Goldfingers is a classic!
By Gary Olsen
Aug 3, 2006

Actually, Goldenfingers was first climbed by Smoot and Ellison. Stone they Rejected and the route left of Goldenfingers were soloed on the FA by some young punk out seeking the meaning of life. Those ascents were not widely reported and some climbers with more sense bolted them not knowing that they had been previously ascended.
By Donovan Allen
From: Subaru
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Such an overlooked climb in the canyon. I always thought the "R" rating came from the flared crack, gear is actually pretty good. Blowing the moves to the chains is probably the "R" part.

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