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Golden Stairs 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Phil Simon 10/87
Page Views: 6,060
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
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2nd 'pitch' of Golden Stairs.

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>


A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from there to the anchors.

One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.


10 bolts to the first set of anchors. If you continue to the top there are three more bolts.

Photos of Golden Stairs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Julien about to clip.
Julien about to clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber sending.
Unknown climber sending.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready for the final crux of the climb. Sep...
Getting ready for the final crux of the climb. Sep...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Golden Stairs
Unknown climber on Golden Stairs
Rock Climbing Photo: Stunning Line
Stunning Line

Comments on Golden Stairs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Apr 2, 2007

There are now 3 bolts between the mid anchors and the top. While not the best rock or the most memorable moves it is certainly worth doing once.
By Bones Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Mar 23, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought this was an extremely beautiful route. Enjoyable movement, nice holds, and overall length made it quite memorable. Even though the climbing past the midway anchors may not be anything special, the view from the top is. And if it was runout at all in the past, it certainly isn't anymore. It's a safe cruise to the top anchors.
By phxDarren
Nov 9, 2011

Michael Beyer doing Golden Stairs.

By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Jun 3, 2013

This route is SUPER classic. Possibly the best 5.11 route that I have done. Absolutely phenomenal! Steep, pumpy, engaging.... Get on this beast! Rest up at the 4th bolt, and try to sprint to the chains!
By Wei-Ming Lam
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 6, 2016

70 m rope mandatory for lowering from top set of anchors. Tie a knot in the end of your rope even if you have a 70! Do not recommend topping out with a 60m.
By Nick Fuentes
Aug 16, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Had the pleasure of working on this beautiful line last week while visiting, Spent 5 days working out the beta, and on the last day of my trip was able to get the red point. Definitely one of my favorite routes of all time and certainly worth the ride. Great project route for any 5.11 climber / Safe falls, great holds, just fight the pump, and enjoy the view. There is a fairly large honey bee nest just at the start of the route by bolt #1; the beta doesnt really interfere with them & they are definitely not aggressive. Good times on a super fun ultra classic route.

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