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Golden Shower 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Faces E/NE
Page Views: 29
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 13, 2009

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A pic of Matt from the early 21st century

Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Some fun juggy moves through a roof to a more moderate crack system.
Climb up and left from the right side of a small inset up a feature somewhat resembling a small arete and head sharply left under the roof to place gear & a long sling. Pay attention to all considerations such as a long enough sling to manage drag, but short enough to keep you off the ledge should you fall. The belayer needs to be attentive. Reach out and left to jugs over the roof and swing out into space. get the feet back on over the roof (crux) and crank up on jugs and jams. A system of moderate cracks continues up to a horizontal crack where you can place a final piece before stepping out right to the bolt and chain anchor shared by the 4 right-most Gold Wall climbs.

Location 

This climb starts at the right edge of a small secondary inset from the Gold Wall ledge, a little left of Gold Club and Gold Member.

Protection 

Gear to 3" with a long sling below the roof.
Titanium anchors (2016)


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