Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Motherlode Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Golden Nugget 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 2,383
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Lead

Description 

This, one of the first lines on the wall is located on the left side of the east face and is the second bolted route from the left; it lies about 15' right of Fire in the Hole.

Boudery moves on thin but positive edges start things off, and lead to a crux section moving past the 2nd bolt. Once past the crux, the holds increase in size and the angle kicks back to a slab for a short section before finishing on vertical jugs.

Great moves on excellent rock make this a popular climb on a popular wall. Orignally done with only two bolts (the second and third) and no anchors, it was later retrobolted which greatly boosted it's popularity.

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchor


Photos of Golden Nugget Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Nugget Anchors
BETA PHOTO: Golden Nugget Anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Lead
Lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Lluis Penalver Aguila leading.
Lluis Penalver Aguila leading.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving gingerly to the 3rd bolt. My first 5.10a sp...
Moving gingerly to the 3rd bolt. My first 5.10a sp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom D starting up Golden Nugget
Tom D starting up Golden Nugget
Rock Climbing Photo: The awesome plates and dike of Golden Nugget.
The awesome plates and dike of Golden Nugget.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Lane nearing the top of Golden Nugget.
Chris Lane nearing the top of Golden Nugget.

Comments on Golden Nugget Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a very fun and spicey lead for the grade. I think it is harder and more sustained than its neighbor, Fire in the Hole. Also a great warm-up for those getting on the 11's to the right (Motherload and Black Bart).
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'll have to disagree with the previous comment seeing how there is only one tough .10a move after bolt #3. It's not sustained after that....perhaps 5.7/5.8 to the top. The opening moves may check in at 5.9.

Nice route though!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed that this is 5.10a - the initial section is quite crimpy. There's a great horn to sling between the second and third bolts, if you're inclined to look for natural ways to protect yourself.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 12, 2009

I would have to rate this as sustained 5.9 for the first three bolts, but couldn't say any single move was harder.
I didn't see anything that would come close to being a "great horn to sling between the second and third bolt." Possibly something broke recently?
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Sep 7, 2009

5.10a at the start and moving from bolt 2 to 3. I have to agree it felt like a 7/8 after that. Grab the jug/horn up and to the right of bolt 3 while clipping. Over the slab the feet are good, and there are solid edges on the last 10-15 feet to the anchors.
By RockyR
From: Encinitas, CA
Jul 16, 2011

This is my first 5.10 lead climb! Not a pretty lead, definitely a nice fun route! I almost "flew" as I got to the 3rd bolt. Managed to stick it though. The mental thought of how it felt run-out to me from 2nd to 3rd bolt is what freaked me out! I will definitely do this route again. Hopefully next time with more finesse to it. :) ~~ ROCKY~~
By Ian McG
Jun 11, 2014

Fun, and a bit sporty getting to the third bolt if breaking into the grade.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Seemed to me that if you blow the third bolt clip, you could deck. Be careful not to rush the clip.