REI Community
Cascade Falls - Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crimson Cringe T 
Filthy Rich T 
Fish Crack T 
Free Press T 
Golden Needles T 
Jug Monkey T 
Mud Shark T 

Golden Needles 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Beyer, Janice Linhares, 1979.
Page Views: 2,060
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
View from top of Route

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The beginning is a flare, but is almost all beautiful handjams. I would recommend this climb to anyone. A great moderate crack climb for beginners.

Climb a 5.7 flared chimney to a belay.

Continue up for a 5.8 pitch, passing double cracks and two roofs.

Protection 

Pro to 3".

Location 

Up left from the toe of the cliff.


Comments on Golden Needles Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Apr 2, 2010

The beginning is a flare, but is almost all beautiful handjams. I would recommend this climb to anyone. A great moderate crack climb for beginners.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Maybe I climbed it wrong, but I found the crux to be entering the double cracks from the belay. It was pumpy, awkward, and hard! The 2 5.8 roofs are intimidating but go easily if you find the footholds on the face.
By Chris I
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 10, 2014

I second Osprey's comments. There is a lot of great hand jamming on this route, and a beginner looking for some steep jamming should definitely get on this. There is plentiful gear for all of the tough spots except for the final move. I thought the last move reaching for the monster nob just above the small tree was the mental crux for sure. I'm 6' tall and couldn't make the spread. With no gear around and a balancy move, you don't want to mess up there. I was able to lead this in one 70m pitch but rope drag was an issue, as was communication with the falls so nearby. Fun way to do it though.

PS this is located in the Pat and Jack section of the Supertopo guidebook as the farthest right route.
By michael s...
From: Denver, CO
Apr 20, 2015

Trailed a tag line and went as high as the blocky spire with all the slings on it. We tied two ropes together to set up a top-rope. A good time was had by all.

As the last person was going up, a dark cloud appeared accompanied by quite a bit of wind rustling debris around and distant booming. We made them come down and I ran up and cleaned the anchor and rappelled to the bottom. When pulling the ropes, with about 10 feet of rope hanging below the anchors it got completely and utterly stuck out of sight in a crack on the right. Decided to re-lead it right then (as opposed to just leaving it and coming back the next day) and saw that the very last bit of the rope had became wrapped completely around (360 degrees) a head-sized chockstone back in the crack.

Took 1/2 a second to flick the end back around, made a quick anchor, and tied the ropes together and wrapped down, and I was pulling the rope from the bottom I thought "well I'll just pull it slower and that'll make sure it comes down." Immediately after finishing that thought I noticed the rope wasn't pulling anymore. I looked up and saw the end disappearing into that same crack again. Damn. I am an idiot.

After much more pulling involving multiple people, I led it again, and of course, the end of the rope had done the same thing that got it stuck the first time. Not too excited about leading it for a fourth time, I stopped at the slung tree and pulled the rope, very very very slowly from there. Not allowing the tail to swing in the slightest as it raised towards the anchor. The crack was avoided and down it came.

This is a super-fun route. But beware the chockstone in the crack on the right towards the top. Hateful little bugger.
By sDawg
May 2, 2016

I agree with Mark that my crux was getting out of the belay alcove and into the double cracks. The first roof is physical, but easy to read and well protected. Chris gives the impression that the final face is height-dependent. I disagree to a point. I'm 5'5'' and I was able to make the reaches. A good high step will earn you as much reach as being tall for this sequence. The face is easy, but with every piece slung out and having back-cleaned 2 from under the roofs to avoid drag, I still had moderate rope drag from the gulley and the tree. Do everything you can to minimize drag so you can get power on that face.

I was super worried about getting the rope stuck on such a wandering climb, but our only issue was with the stopper knots at the ends of the ropes. We used one 70m and could have done it in 2 raps, from the top to the first belay and then to the ground, but we chose to move to the tree 2/3 up the first pitch to avoid a stuck rope.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About