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Golden Labs 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Peter Croft, John Howe, Blake Robinson, Sept. 1980
Page Views: 853
Submitted By: Mike Teschke on Jun 16, 2009  with updates from katelynn

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A left trending flake. Starts off with a slightly overhanging lay back hand crack up onto the ramp like flake that moves up left, the flake narrows to the point where you can't easily stand on it about the same time the jams move from nice hand jams to rattly fingers. The last half of the climb was quite burly and felt harder than 5.9 for me.


Just about half way between the top of Slot Machine and Xenolith Dance. It is a somewhat obvious flake just on the right side of bottom of the upper descent gully that has the fixed lines.


Good selection of hand to finger sized gear. Chained rap anchor. 60m rope works nicely.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 31, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Worthy pitch. Starts as #3 camalots and ends as purple/green camalots.
By slim
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

very worthwhile little pitch. good blue collar jamming at the start, followed by some elegant footwork with a nice diagonal crack. leader should probably belay from the top anchor, as lowering could jam the first cams into the roof.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

FA: Peter Croft, John Howe, Blake Robinson, Sept. 1980
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 23, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome route, immaculate stone with excellent friction - crystals the size of your knuckles. The crux is not where it appears, the roof was solid hand jams throughout (but I've got big hands - the business is tight #3s). Surprisingly pumpy climbing to the chains. First class.

Good gear recommendation from Andy. I'd say doubles from .5-#3 Camalot, but you could place a .4 at the end. Also takes large nuts well. Extending your gear at the beginning can eliminate the risk of the rope pulling your roof cams into the crack, so lower if you want.

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