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The Goose
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Arete T 
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Deserted Cities of the Heart S 
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East Face / Goose T 
Golden Goat S 
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Sweet and Innocent T 

Golden Goat 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman and Steve Annecone, 9-7-14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Sep 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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At the crux.... (Photo by Chandler.)

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  • Description 

    Golden Goat climbs up the steep, yellow and orange wall just right of Sweet and Innocent. It's sustained 5.10 and 5.11- climbing on buckets for the most part, with a crux finish up top. Although there are some vertical bits, it overhangs about 5 degrees on average.


    The route starts about 40 feet right of the Sweet and Innocent start, right in the middle of the west face of the Goose. Lower or rappel from chains at the top, or one could traverse left at the top to join Sweet and Innocent, taking that to the summit.


    9 quickdraws plus two for the anchor.

    Photos of Golden Goat Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful West Face of the Goose, with Golden ...
    The beautiful West Face of the Goose, with Golden ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: ... approaching the slightly overhanging crux sect...
    ... approaching the slightly overhanging crux sect...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sharon cruising her way to a flash send of Golden ...
    Sharon cruising her way to a flash send of Golden ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just finished with the bolting, and now Bret is br...
    Just finished with the bolting, and now Bret is br...

    Comments on Golden Goat Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Beh
    Nov 9, 2014
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I like this pitch! Lots of big holds with 5.10 climbing up to a good rest just below the last bolt and a short crux. I would call it 11a. Wear a helmet belaying. There is still some loose rock. Also note that this route is not great to follow. Bolted fine for the lead, but the anchor is up a ways left of the last bolt. The crux climbing moves further right before traversing back up to the chains. It would be kind of a nasty swing if you fell following the crux move. I did follow the pitch after leading it and chose to pull up the rope to the anchor rather than face the possible fall off the crux.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 9, 2014
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I found the position, bolting, and movement on this line to be outstanding; unfortunately, I found the rock to be extremely suspect (and borderline dangerous in my risk adverse opinion) for most, if not all, of the route. I just didn’t feel safe on the route due to the aforementioned (knocking off a massive foothold while cranking over the bulge at mid-height sure didn’t help). I’m not even sure if more cleaning would have helped – just too many rotten bands on that section of the cliff. The crux move is a blind, double bump right that’s somewhat off the bolt line. The route is 5.10+ with beta. No disrespect to Bret and Steve, whose contributions have been immense – thanks, guys, for all your great additions to Front Range (and beyond) climbing!
    By Rui Ferreira
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 9, 2015
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    We got on this route thinking it was Raging Bull and therefore were prepared for suspect, fragile flakes, so in that sense there were no surprises. The last headwall before the anchors (located up and left) is mostly blank, and it was not obvious at the time that the route continued around and right. It is a bit spooky tip-toeing the lip to get back to clip the anchors below.

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