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Peeler Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T 
Birthday Route T 
Black Mamba T 
Black Peeler T 
Ezra The Catamite T 
Golden Eye T,S 
Hell Broke Luce T 
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 
Nazi Love Slaves T 
Orangutan Afternoon T 
Peeler Direct 
Riveting 
Serpent, The T 
Skin Man T 
Stag Party T 
Tin Man T 
Unsorted Routes:

Golden Eye 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Ben Folsom , Lance Bateman Oct. 15, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,663
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 15, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo/Topo of the Lower Southeast face of the Blac...

  • On private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is on the Southeast face of the Black Peeler to the right of Peeler Direct. It climbs the righthand prow of the Peeler face. To reach, climb Orangutan Afternoon most of the way then stem right across a chimney and traverse right to a small ledge with bolt anchors and belay. For Goldeneye, climb up and left from there into a short left facing corner. Protect with a few small to medium cams. The rest of the pitch is bolt protected. Move left across a slab and around to the left side of the prow. Climb up from there following bolts to chain anchors at the top. Really good climbing.

    Protection 

    Bring a set of cams. Quickdraws.


    Comments on Golden Eye Add Comment
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    By clayhoon
    Oct 29, 2007

    one of the best in the canyon Props Ben and Lance!! *****
    By Ben Folsom
    Jul 5, 2010

    Found a fixed rope on Golden Eye yesterday. It was old with core shots and totally baked to a crisp in the sun. Normally I would leave peoples fixed ropes alone out of respect for others property and for their projecting purposes. This rope however had obviously been left through the winter and was no longer safe to use. Anyway, I removed the rope, so if whoever it was wants it back, get in touch with me here. It's worthless for climbing, but still might make a few decent rugs.
    By drewford
    From: Wasatch Back, UT
    May 12, 2014

    This route keeps getting harder? Used to be 12c I thought.
    By Ben Folsom
    Jun 13, 2014

    I guess I did change the rating to 13a. I'm not good at rating things in the first place. Everyone I have talked to that has done the route tells me it is 5.13. Now days, people get so upset about a little sandbag, so figured I'd change it. Go do it, let me know what you think.
    By Brent Barghahn
    From: SLC, UT
    Sep 17, 2017

    Incredibly flakey. Bring a wire brush and plan to scrub from the top first if you hope to climb this thing.

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