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Lance Lemkau putting it up.
|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
There is a tricky move past a drilled piton before you can get into the crack itself. The rock above and a bit to the right of the piton seems to be the best way to go. You can get a #3 Camalot in to the right above a little ledge. Once in the dihedral you can place one more #3, then it is #2's for the next 70'. about 20' from the top the crack narrow's a little to #1's, and then .75's just before the anchors. There are some features on the wall to give your feet a break. This is an awesome crack, but to this point it does not look like it has seen much traffic. It could still use a some cleaning up.
Located 150' past Tower 143, around the corner to the right.
Quick draw for the piton. Camalots needed: 2 #3's, 4-6 #2's (4 works if you walk some, 2 #1's, 2 #.75's.
BETA PHOTO: The sketchy start can be made a little easier/safe...