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Golden Boy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Bill Ramsey
Season: Winter
Page Views: 3,468
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Mar 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Golden Boy- 13b.


This may be the best route at the Red, if you care about little things like aesthetics, movement, setting and rock quality. On the unmistakable Gold Coast, this route follows the most distinct line of pockets, dripping down the wall but dwindling to a trickle, not quite reaching the ground. It clearly has the largest pockets on the wall and, thus, the easiest climbing, but you'll have to survive the characteristic Gold Coast slopey crimps at the start to get to those pockets. Start in a jumble of boulders, make a few very long moves up to a ledge, then cast off up the gently overhanging face. The hardest moves are encountered quickly, before the largest pockets are reached, but a stopper redpoint crux lies in wait higher on the route. Nail this, and you're treated to big fun moves on larger holds to the top.

Some think this route is harder than Black Gold, and surprisingly it resisted a first ascent for much longer than some of the harder routes. However, it is highly dependent on conditions. If you've learned that rock climbing should happen when it's 45 degrees and 50% humidity rather than 70 and 70%, then you'll find the grade to be about right.


On the Gold Coast Wall, this is the 2nd route from the right on the main wall, proper (not counting that bolted dihedral.



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