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Golden Arches 

Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Sep 18, 2013

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Bearing down on the crimp

Description 

Want to climb the concave, slightly overhanging face of the Old Gold/Arch boulder via a large slopey flake, a couple of crimps and a cool sidepull?

Next to Arch Nemesis, this problem has some of the best movement on the whole boulder and while the moves are obvious, it's not as easy as it looks.

Start low with a left crimp and a right hand pinch on the flake. The starting foot is for the right foot and it's the little chip in the corner formed by the flake. Pull up to a good gaston divot for your left hand and then grab the obvious right hand crimp. At this point your fingers might say "No!". Crank on the crimp to get your left hand up to the half moon shaped hold and figure out how to grab it. It's far worse than it looks. Get a left foot on the start crimp and stand up to the sidepull. Now just get to the lip, either with a scary little jump or a delicate couple of "princess" moves with your feet. Top out with a mantle. Solid rock, fun moves, and deserving of more traffic.

Location 

This problem is located on the Old Gold Boulder (aka the Arch). When coming up the trail, this boulder is on your left as you near the top. If you can find the Whip, turn around. This problem climbs the overhanging side. Downclimb a short slab around the corner left of the problem.

Protection 

At least two pads - one to cover the rock and another one for the ground. Three pads work even better!


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