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Golden Age 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Morgan Patterson 06/10/12 (TR)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,511
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Jun 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Golden Age


The Ragged Arete


Starting about 10 ft right of Carey's Corner crack, step up to the start holds for Cygnus X-1. Climb to the decent horizontal just below the large overlap, follow the horizontal left for several feet and reach up to a large jug/rest at the base of the Ragged Arete where it joins the face. Layback out the arete to gain a stance just below the small overlap. From the small overlap continue up the arete using decent holds to a good stance (almost no hands). From this rest stance work several tenuous moves to an undercling flake on the corner. At the flake make a crux swinging move (utilizing the sidepull on the flake) left around the corner. Once established on the left side of the arete, work a compression sequence up the seam and arete to the top of the Ragged Arete. Fist pump.

I believe this is an FA, if you know otherwise speak up! This line is a link up, Swan Song into Black Orchid.


An anchor and a top rope...

Photos of Golden Age Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ragged Arete
BETA PHOTO: Ragged Arete

Comments on Golden Age Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2015
By T Roper
Jun 26, 2013

you should bolt it, lead it and then chop it so nobody else can lead it with bolts
By T Roper
Jun 26, 2013

then talk shit about it
By The Pheonix
Jun 27, 2013

yo you mean like ken "do as I say not as I did" nichols?
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Jun 18, 2014

Still... no second ascent??? Come'mon CT who doesn't love a good TR?
By guy bon
Jun 20, 2014

invalid until lead clean. c'mon momo, sack up and get out your duct tape. All I see is an open project ;)
By Echoinfi
Jun 20, 2014

Removable boltl technology does exist. I think you should lead it and get the FA
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Jun 23, 2014

Ha... already got the FFA haha! U might be able to do it on gear but it'd be R/X probably and drilling holes in that just to place RB's (that aren't meant to hold whippers) seems kinda silly.

Historically everything on this corner has been done on TR and claimed as FA/FFA. Sam Slater & Swan Song, Bill Lutkis and Black Orchid (FA on aid then TR for FFA), KN and Cygnus X. Though to be the first to lead a route on this corner would be pretty impressive.
By T Roper
Jun 26, 2014

RBs hold whips, no excuse.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Jun 26, 2014

So who wants to pitch in some loot?? I'll get the ninja suit ready...
By JIncillo
Jun 27, 2014

Why do they have to be removable....
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Jul 8, 2014

RMF prohibits the placement of any fixed gear. As their by-law is written, a climber could infact drill holes and place removable gear and still be in compliance. None of the routes on this arete have ever been lead... that's the draw.
By christopher adams
May 10, 2015

Would the FFA count if you managed to slot a cam or three into Carey corner?
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
May 11, 2015

Looks like you got the SA Chris? Did you send on TR or on Lead? Surprised you think its only 11c/d... the move around the corner at the undercling and subsequent compression sequence always felt a harder then 11+.

I've always though that you could probably get some cams in Cary's Corner on the lower section. But what would you do to protect the top half of the route? Falling at the crux move around the corner wld lead to a large swinging fall into the left wall. Falling beyond that point, I wouldn't even want to think about let alone the rescue effort to get you off the mnt.
By christopher adams
May 15, 2015

No- I was drunk and meant to grade black orchid. The comment was just curiosity - I was just wondering if you could traverse off route and halfway up CC, slam cams into C.C, traverse down/back in.

You know, standard bullshit when there's no fixed protection available.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
May 15, 2015

Hahahaha... you made me laugh thnx man. I was kinda like really only two stars??

I think one could stay on route and place gear, i just don't think you could fall on the upper half of the route. Did you lead Black Orchid? That could be a first lead for that route.
By Topo Gigio
Nov 23, 2015

Having now sent all the lines in this corner/arête area I can say Golden Age is pretty cool and is a stout 12a/b. Could be harder for shorter individuals. However, I found that while the arête was fun, I think the most natural line in that area is the straight up direct line from bottom to top. The move left around the arête was obvious, but I felt it took away from that natural flow of the climb. Good tough line nonetheless
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Nov 24, 2015

Awesome, thanks for sharing Topo and congrats on the Second! Straight up the whole way is Swan Song and I'd agree, that has the most flow.
By Topo Gigio
Nov 24, 2015

oh okay. my partner must've got the second and I the third (if TR means anything). we warmed up on all those variations that day before heading to try the 13+/14- on the North End that our friend told us about
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Nov 24, 2015

Ha.. well at Ragged, TR is something... All those lines on the arete have only been done TR but I think Golden Age might be managed on lead one day.

And that's awesome you guys are trying the North End Proj.. how'd it go? What did you guys think? Do you think it'll go/go soon?
By Topo Gigio
Nov 24, 2015

haha no way. thing is pretty stout...and a pain in the butt to get restablished with the overhang on TR. pretty sweet line though.

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