Free Range Chicken, 5.11.
The Gold Wall
I found this neglected crag info on an old Charlie Fowler web archive, so I thought I would post it here so it doesn't slip into complete obscurity. A friend and I went out there today and had a great time, although the routes are sandy from lack of use. There is a wild, crystalline, coral-reef-like veneer over some of the routes. It should clean up nicely with traffic. The following is an excerpt from Charlie's page.
This is a newly explored cliff (2006) about 6.5 miles east of Norwood. It is located above the BLM's Beaver Creek Recreation Area (boat launch and Gold Fever campsites) north of CO Highway 145, 1.5 miles east of the Norwood Bridge.
The rock is similar in height (35-55 feet) and character to the nearby Clay Creek climbing area and contains a mix of sport and crack climbs. Bring a single rope, 7 or 8 QDs and anchor rigs, a set of nuts and two sets of cams to 4 inches. Most climbs can be easily toproped off fixed anchors or from big trees (bring a long anchor rope).
Route list was updated on March 9. 2006.
Routes listed left to right (west to east):
A. 3rd Class short scramble to the top.
B. Pork And Molasses, 5.10+, sport, tricky low-angle arete.
C. Free Range Chicken, 5.11 *, sport, steep gold wall.
D. Broken Road, 5.8, thin crack to hands in corner crack.
E. Fresh Fears, 5.11, sport, crimpy then sloper face.
F. Time Well Wasted, 5.7, thin crack and face, 1 bolt.
G. Good Enough For the Poor, 5.8, sport up a grey face.
H. The Bird Flew, 5.9+, sport, on the grey slab.
I. New Religion, 5.11 *, sport, pull overhang then up bolted wall.
J. Don't Ask, 5.10-, fingers/layback past overhang, hands above.
K. Don't Tell, 5.10-, hands in corner and wider above to same anchor as J.
L. Almost Cut My Hair, 5.11 *, sport, sloper arete just right of J & K.
M. Strong On Defense, 5.9+, sport, face past overhang.
N. Hack, 5.7, hands and OW crack.
O. Tool, 5.10+, sport, steep, right-facing corner to face.
P. Troll, 5.7, sport, bolted arete.
Disclaimer: The information here is only approximate, climbers should always use good judgment when repeating routes. Route ratings given here are suggestions only, pending a consensus. The actual difficulty of a climb is very subjective.
The cliff itself is clearly seen from the highway. Park at at pullout along CO Highway 145 at the west entrance to the BLM recreation area. On the north side of the highway is old stonework, find a well-marked trail up the drainage to the north. The aproach takes about 20 'Charlie Fowler' minutes or so.
Climbing Season For the Telluride/Norwood area area.
Weather station 5.4 miles from here
Featured Route For Gold Wall