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Ellery Dam Spillway Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack T 
Dominant Partner TR 
Ellery Arete S 
Gold Mind T,TR 
Guilt of the Fisherman T 
Roof-to-Dihedral T,TR 
Spillway Arete S,TR 
Triple Ripple T 

Gold Mind 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 883
Submitted By: Michelle Johnson on Oct 23, 2013  with updates from Bruce Morris

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BETA PHOTO: "Gold Mind" (5.9) at sunset


Crux is at the bottom of the climb. It is a hand crack that does get wider as you go higher.


Center of the Spillway Crag. This is the first cliffband you come to on the old mining road from the Ellery Lake Dam.


Standard Rack or you can toprope.

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By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 21, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

First couple of moves are the crux and it's not very hard for 5.9, then it's sweet hand jams and blocky, in-cut, huge edges. There are currently bolts on top, but no chains.
By Tomko
Jul 9, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Mild for the grade and also super good. Quality edges the whole way. Standard rack will suffice. Shiny new bolts up top as of July 2016.

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