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4. Wonderland Wall
Routes Sorted
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Blackout T 
Cleaning up the Scraps T 
Coyote Rain T 
Do You Want Your Pant Legs? T 
Evening Blues T 
Gentle Violence T,S 
Gold Lion T,S 
Mighty Quinn, The T 
Rona's Roof T 
Route Vultures, The T 
Short Stack T,S 
Speck In My Eye T 
Trifecta T 
Weston's Syrup T 
Winter Classic T,S 
Wonderland T,S 

Gold Lion 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

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Start 10’ right of Gentle Violence near the tree.
P1: Climb up to the first bolt and make the crux move lunge to a rail and pocket (bolt). Move up into the left sweeping arch. Pull up the left side to a stance (bolt). Make tricky moves to gain a blind placement (.75 in the left side works good) in a horizontal. Pull onto the ledge and a two bolt anchor under the roof. 55’ 5.10+
P2: Clip a bolt over the roof (aid was used to pull the roof) and make hard moves to a ledge. Move up a series of headwalls placing gear to a two bolt anchor below the trees. 70’ 5.8 A0.


10' right of gentle violence


standard rack

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