Includes a small collection of quality routes, including Swift Trip, the best 5.11 lieback west of Indian Creek. Okay, that's an exaggeration, but it's a cool line for sure. If you're looking to push your trad hard-man skills, this pitch is for you, but first consider the tick-infested approach. On my first trip here, I pulled over fifty off my pants.
The first section of Swift Trip, a high quality 5.8 lieback crack, can be led and toproped seperate from the rest of the climb via some old bolts. I don't know what kind of bolts they are exactly, but they looked old, rusty, slightly bent, and the rock around them is on the soft side. Don't say I didn't warn you...
From Santa Barbara, drive north on 154, take a right on Paradise Valley road and drive till you pass the first river crossing. Take a left and head towards Upper Oso Campground. Just before you hit the campsite, the crag can be seen to your right. Park here. There are a number of what seems to be cattle trails that lead in myriad directions, all of them bad and bush-ridden. My advice is to stay high and try not to get sucked into the creek.
Climbing Season For the Santa Barbara area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Gold Chasm
Swift Trip 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c California
: Central Coast
: ... : Gold Chasm
Hand jam your way up an obvious 5.8 lieback crack to a sandy ledge. From here, you can lower off a questionable bolt anchor, or you may continue diagonally up and left via strenuous finger-locks (5.11). The rock on the second section doesn't see a lot of ascents and is therefore on the chossy side, but increased traffic and (perhaps) a motivated bloke with a brush could turn this route into a classic pitch. ...[more] Browse More Classics in California