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5. Romance Novels
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Going Steady TR 
Hidden Target, The TR 
Middlemarch TR 
New York to Dallas 33 TR 
Night Smoke TR 
Pride and Prejudice TR 
Vanity Fair TR 
When Two Paths Meet TR 

Going Steady 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts, Karel Hrbacek
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: kenr on Dec 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Romance Novels - Right (SE) side: . Q. (Adventure...

Description 

Interesting climbing, but crux move is significantly harder than the rest.

Up to the bottom of corner/crack, then diagonal up right. Before reaching the level of the roof, step right (crux) across into steep (overhanging?) gully, and up that to gentle section. Trend a bit left with easier climbing to the top.

. . Variation: Start up the center of the face (5.8)

name of book: Sally Burnaby series.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

About 15-20 feet right up from low point of rock of this sector, under obvious corner/crack starting about 10-15 feet up.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Romance Novels sector .

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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