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Shortoff - Upper Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Nude T 
Footloose T 
Going for Baroque T 
Paradigm Shift T 
Reacharound T 
Stiff Upper Lip  T 
Variation  T 

Going for Baroque 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom McMillan, Tom Howard, Jim Okel '81
Page Views: 393
Submitted By: nbrown on Jan 1, 2015

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Late day glow. Fun spot to finish off the day.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The original start is a bit runout close to the ground and gets an R rating. However there is a better protected version just left in the obvious weakness. But for historical sake, I'll describe both variations here:

Climb up the obvious weakness to some ledges and move right to a .75 camelot slot (where an old pin used to be) above a prominent thin pointy flake. From here the route climbs up the steep somewhat chossy holds to merge back into the main crack system at a ledge. Don't blow it towards the end here.

Alternately, just climb the obvious weakness from bottom to top. There is a good but shallow #4 camelot just below the crux and the stopper, as well as a couple other options.

Continue up the overhanging corner crack feature to the top. This part is super cool.

Location 

This is the most obvious feature in the middle of the wall. There is an old rusted bolt just left, and a newer one on a steep face just right (Reacharound).

Protection 

Standard rack, maybe small wires for bottom and a big cam for top.


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By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 8, 2015

The pin on the original start fell out in my hand today. However, I managed to excavate enough rock from that crack to open up a bomber .75 camelot slot instead. Regardless, it's probably better and safer to climb the left start anyway.

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