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Middle Class Wall
Routes Sorted
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Black Eye In Overtime S 
Black Eye In The Sky S 
Blue Collar Baby S 
Goin' Streakin' S 
Lichenback S 
Mass Appeal S 
Middle Class Cracker T 
Middle Management S 
Overtime S 
Streaky Stylee S 
Twinkletoes S 

Goin' Streakin' 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Beavers
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010

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Description 

Great rock and a cool 11b-ish sequence lead to middle ledge via 6 bolts. Above the ledge there are 2 options: either climb a tough boulder problem crux directly through the 2 bolts above (not sure how hard-yet to be done free?), or climb high enough to reach up and clip both bolts and then go back down/reach right to climb the crack for a couple of moves and hand traverse back left to regain the route for a much easier but less direct variation. The route then converges with Streaky Stylee at the prow for a move or two before following bolts back out right to chains. If not for the weirdness above the middle ledge, this route would get more stars.

Location 

The right route of the 3 on the smiley face (see photo on Middle Class page).

Protection 

12 bolts to chains.


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