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God's Grace 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Strassman, 2004(?)
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Oct 24, 2015

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Jay Schenk following P3 of God's Grace

Description 

Excellent thin-face and slab climbing on quality stone up the right-hand margin of Adam's Rib (aka Right Rabbit Ear). 4 new bolted pitches lead to another 4 pitches of somewhat grainy and bushy cracks with occasional runout face. The last 3 pitches are shared with the routes "Adam's Rib" and "Eve's Wang."

P1) Up the arete on the right edge of the tower, left across a dike/slab, then up cracks to a belay atop a large rounded block. 6 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.10-

P2) Straight up the sustained slab. 10 or 11 bolts to bolted anchor. 5.10c

P3) Up and right through the small roof/flake, then straight up the face above. 7 bolts + gear to bolted anchor. 5.9/10-

P4) Straight up the face past 6 bolts (skipping an off-route 7th bolt up and left), then traverse right past 4 or 5 more bolts through a short & desperately blank smearing section which felt a bit harder than the proposed 5.10c grade. Beyond the bolts, continue up a lieback corner and step left onto a large ledge. 10 or 11 bolts + gear, tree anchor. 5.11a

P5) This is where things start to get funky, and don't quite match up with the topo. There are a few possible options here, so take my beta with a grain of salt. Left off the belay, 10' up a crack, 10' left across a nice dike to a right-leaning thin crack/flake. Over a small roof, then up and left past a wafer-thin and expando flake (think light and crank softly). Gear to bolted anchor. Short pitch, 5.10a R

P6) A foot-then-hand traverse straight right for 50' past a few bushes to a gear anchor in a nice handcrack/flake. Another short pitch, 5.8. One can escape out right into the gully from here. (Alternatively, there is a steep thin crack above the bolted anchor - this may be the true line.)

P7) Up the steep face past an old bolt (hard to spot) and left to the corner. Continue up the bushy and somewhat loose cracks above. 5.8 R

P8) Another bushy crack pitch to the summit. 5.7

Location 

Right edge of Adam's Rib (aka Right Rabbit Ear). Descend 3rd class gully to climber's left, same as for Smokestack.

Protection 

12 quickdraws/extendable slings for bolts (all stainless 3/8") single rack of cams to 3", set of stoppers.


Photos of God's Grace Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Schenk following P1 of God's Grace
Jay Schenk following P1 of God's Grace
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay on God's Grace, Rabbit Ears
Jay on God's Grace, Rabbit Ears
Rock Climbing Photo: The Rabbit Ears with God's Grace (IV 5.10c) shown
BETA PHOTO: The Rabbit Ears with God's Grace (IV 5.10c) shown
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Schenk leading the sustained P2 slab of God's ...
Jay Schenk leading the sustained P2 slab of God's ...

Comments on God's Grace Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Oct 24, 2015

Mike Strassman added this route to the old rc.com database in 2004, stating that there are 5 bolted pitches to gain the remaining 3 on the other routes. I found only 4 bolted pitches, and there hanging on the P3 anchor was a sunbleached rotten sling with 9 unused SS bolts and hangers. On top of P5 I found a new-ish bolted anchor of the same variety that he used below; this anchor is not indicated in the topo. Based on this I think it's likely that Mike had intentions of completing a bolted 5th pitch, but never got around to it before he passed away.

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