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God Tid ("Good Time") T 
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God Tid ("Good Time") 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eirik Austlid, Hafdan Erik Egeberg 1989
Page Views: 19
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Sep 1, 2016

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Starting dihedrals?

Description 

It's hard to give this route a quality rating. The climbing itself is on fine rock, but wandery, indistinct, and involves a lot of mantles onto ledges with loose boulders. The reason this route should get 4 stars is for the absolutely singular position, exposure, and view that rewards suitors.

This route is generally hard to describe, and we may not have even been on "God Tid". I'll describe what we did.

P1. Start up the indistinct dihedrals until you can step right into a short left facing dihedral (fixed cam here). Head up until you find a nice ledge to belay on. 5.8

P2. Traverse right until you find yourself below a hanging dihedral with some flakes on the right side. This dihedral is hidden from the left. Find gear and power up until you are on a ledge below a big, wet rf dihedral. Go up this until you can step left onto a sloping ledge and find a suitable belay. 5.8

P3 Crux off the ledge up a thin crack until you can pull left onto a ledge. Wander up and left through a bunch of loose stuff and mantles until you get on some decent, but lichen covered water-grooved rock. Fire straight up. If you are scared, easier climbing can be found in the drainage to your left. Go until you can see the Norwegian flag on the summit. 5.9+

Location 

Wander up towards Heftyes rute from Bandet. In general, stay left on the ridge, and try to follow cairns. Eventually you will hit the summit block, and be forced hard right to Heftyes. At this point, before traversing right, look straight up and you should see a ramp heading left and up... this is the entrance pitch to Andrew's Renne. There is a ledge about 15m to the right from this ramp are some indistinct dihedrals facing generally right. This is the start?

From the summit, wander down to the south along 4th and easy 5th class for 30m until you locate some rap chains around a huge block. 1x 50m rap will get you to the large ledge system from which you can traverse northwest back to your gear.

Protection 

Doubles to #3 would be wise.


Photos of God Tid ("Good Time") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from Klatrefører for Jotunheimen
BETA PHOTO: Taken from Klatrefører for Jotunheimen
Rock Climbing Photo: Mia coming up the last pitch
Mia coming up the last pitch

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