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Goblin 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Patty Kline, Kelly Vaught, and Frank Bentwood, June 2005
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: alleyehave on Sep 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Description 

Start just right of Finger Lickin' Good with an unprotected face move (5.8) or up the easier crack farther right, to a friction slab with three bolts (5.10a). At the last bolt, you can move left to the 2-bolt anchor.

Falling while making the moves to the first bolt on the upper section would likely be bad and warrants an R rating. However; there is a crack to the right which would likely take gear but might be considered off-route.

Location 

Directly to the right of Finger Lickin' Good.

Protection 

A few small cams/nuts and 3 draws for the bolts.


Comments on Goblin Add Comment
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By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 3, 2014

If this is only 5.10a then my technique on friction slabs is clearly lacking! Even after failing to lead it and resorting to a top-rope, the crux move felt like UK 6a to me, which the usual grade conversion tables would suggest is 5.11-something!! I suspect this climb gets a relatively low grade because the hardest moves are very safe, right next to closely-spaced bolts. Use of side runners takes the sting out of the less safe R bit.

Total length is 60' rather than 100'.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 1, 2015

I don't totally disagree. It seemed harder than expected for the grade, and I have a reasonable amount of slab experience.
By J Sundstrom
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 5, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The horizontal crack at the ledge takes finger-sized that'd keep you off the deck on the way to the first bolt. You'd still hit the ledge but wouldn't go tumbling down to your belayer.

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