Goblin Combe Rock Climbing
A beautiful woodland valley about half way between Bristol and Weston-Super-Mare. Despite the good climbing, easy access and scenic surroundings, it rarely gets crowded. Overall, Goblin Combe is a local crag, unlikely to get visits from afar but certainly an asset to people in the Bristol/Weston area. That's not to say the climbing is bad: there are some real gems, as good as anything else in the area.
The rock is natural limestone, mostly between 12 and 25m in height, generally solid with plenty of nut placements. There are convenient trees at the top of most climbs so building anchors and descending from your climb is straightforward. Although toproping off these trees is not encouraged, it is tolerated, subject to the usual considerations (e.g. extending the anchor over the edge).
The southerly aspect makes it a good winter destination, and the trees give shelter from the wind. In the summer, the same trees provide shade while belaying (top and bottom).
If there is anything to detract from the experience at Goblin Combe it is the unfortunate positioning of the flight path from Bristol airport. Every 20 minutes or so the peace and tranquillity is disturbed by a passing aircraft. These are sufficiently infrequent that it isn't really a problem.
From Bristol take the A370 towards Weston-Super-Mare as far as the village of Cleeve. Just before the Lord Nelson pub, take a left down a small single-track road (Cleeve Hill Road) for about a quarter mile to a parking area on the left.
By public transport there is a frequent bus service (the X1/353/352) from Bristol that stops at the Lord Nelson. Be warned that this can get very busy on sunny weekends and bank holidays with people on the way to the seaside town of Weston!
From the car park, walk back towards the village about 50m then turn right down a signposted footpath (through a gate sporting a "no climbing" sign). A further half mile down this path you will see Owl rock on the left.
Climbing Season For the South West area.
Weather station 7.6 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Goblin Combe
Shagrat 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Owl Rock
Fun climbing with good movement and a distinctive crux, though mostly quite easy. Probably an easy grab for a new E2 leader though the E probably comes from the pro situation, which looks sparse/sketch in the first half.Start up the left side of a large flake/block 2 m off the ground and climb an easy calcified crack to a bulge with a questionable piton on the left and an unquestionably terrible thread on the right. Move up to an overlap/small roof (small gear) and pass this on the right (crux)....[more] Browse More Classics in International