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Goblin Wall
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Goblin Arete T 

Goblin Arete 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Andy Genereux '92
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: kiff on Jul 26, 2016

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From the far left side of the tree ledge (bolt) climb some less than enjoyable rock for ~10 meters past a few bolts. Where it begins to steepen, keep going straight up (one can also go left, which is less fun) through steep, juggy terrain. Cut right under the roof onto the face and execute a few thin face moves for the route's crux. Belay at a stance.
The succeeding 2-3 pitches are stellar arete and face climbing. It is easy to head off right to Love at First Sight (11-) and weave between face and arete, which I think offers the best climbing of both routes. The final pitch on the arete (10c) is spectacular, thin and exposed with great stone to a grassy ledge. Wonderful views of chubby water floating tourists and the Back of the Lake.


The obvious arete above the south side of the lake, gets good late afternoon sun. Quite exposed to any prevailing winds.


18 draws and a single rack to 1 inch offers the best options to pick your own path between the arete and Love at First Sight. Double ropes aids in this tactic, but a single 70 is likely the best alternative.

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