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Goats Beard Ice 
Methow Inspiration Route S 
Prime Rib of Goat S 
Promised Land T,S 
Restless Natives S 
Sisyphus S 

Goats Beard Ice 

WI5

   
Type:  Ice, 6 pitches, 1000'
Original: WI5 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Shaun Johnson on Jan 17, 2017

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One of the best photos I have taken in my life.

Description 

Elusive, coveted and magnificent.

An all time classic ice climb not to be taken lightly.

Overhead risk is unavoidable and the route is completely exposed to the southern sky.

Full detailed write up here:
waynewallace.wordpress.com/201...

Protection 

A full rack of ice screws and cord for V threads.


Photos of Goats Beard Ice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 2013 Goats Beard Ice
BETA PHOTO: 2013 Goats Beard Ice

Comments on Goats Beard Ice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jan 17, 2017

It's great that you posted this info Shaun, but it needs to have some more info.

The link is fantastic, but may not always be there. And it shouldn't be required to go elsewhere for info. Could add some info on how to get to the base and what to bring?

Thanks -
By Eric Hirst
Jan 20, 2017

I believe this follows the approximate line of Sisyphus.

Shaun's comment about overhead risk is probably the most important detail here. The line is plainly visible from the River Run trail on the Mazama Nordic ski trail system. From there, I've seen big stuff fall off of it on cold but sunny days. Would-be suitors should plan accordingly, and also be aware that the valley does often see temperature inversions.
By Kyle Elliott
From: Everett, WA
Jan 25, 2017

If I'm not mistaken, this actually roughly follows the Restless Natives line. Sisyphus is further to the right.
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Mar 22, 2017

Super obvious from the road. 20-30 min approach. We did the route in 6 LONG pitches, 6 hours car to car. We found the first crux to be a long wi5 (p2). the other cruxes were the section through the roofs( a clever, thin corner in the middle of giant roofs, p5). The last pitch was an endurance pillar that took my last shred of energy, p6. The ice was greatly varied in type and consistency, adding yet another element to the intense experience. The route is never super difficult, but the position/exposure to icefall is always on your mind. It probably came in during the '16/17 winter too briefly.

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