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Goat Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route TR 
Corner Route T 
Goat Rock Traverse 
Great Roof, The TR 
Swiss Cheese T,TR 
Triple Overhang TR 

Goat Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.2282, -122.1079 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,931
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Melissa Moore on Jun 20, 2002  with updates from Lukas Wiborg
This Afternoon

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BETA PHOTO: Goat Rock as viewed from the approach. You can se...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


Goat Rock is tucked a fair way back from the main Castle Park area, but it's worth the beautiful hike in.

It's a pretty sweet mix of slabs and overhung, cave-like climbs, with lots of pockets all around.

The rock itself is 110 feet high, but the routes run no longer than 80 feet.

From the top you get an even more breathtaking view of the valley.

All the climbs have top-rope bolts except "Left Side of Great Roof" which has 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

The climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12a, with something for everyone.

This rock is great if you have people with varying skill levels in your group.

The top rope bolts are easily accessed, but you should definitely bring long slings to set up your top rope if you want your rope to last on this sandstone.

If you're planning on staying 'til sundown don't forget to bring a headlamp or flashlight... otherwise the hike out gets very tricky.

Classics on Goat Rock include Great Roof (5.10b) and the Left Side (5.12a) for more advanced climbers, and Swiss Cheese (5.4-5.7) for less experienced climbers.

Getting There 

From the main Castle Rock parking lot, take the Saratoga Gap Trail west toward Castle Rock Falls. You will cross Kings Creek, then at the fork in the trail, turn right onto Ridge Trail (there is a sign labeled goat rock). If you reach the observation platform for Castle Rock Falls you have gone past the fork. Passing by Last Temptation Cliff and Billy Goat rock on your right, you will come to Goat Rock on the left side. It's about a 1.3 to 1.5 mile hike in, with a decent amount of uphill walking, on a fairly small but well-traveled trail.

It is also possible to access Goat rock from the backpack camp via the ridge trail.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Goat Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Goat Rock:
Swiss Cheese   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Triple Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Great Roof   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Goat Rock

Featured Route For Goat Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul leading the lower 5.8/5.9 section.

The Great Roof 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Goat Rock
The Great Roof is the extremely odvious roof hanging atop Goat Rock. The climb beneath the roof is easy (5.8), yet complicated by the fact that you have a top rope on - you can't go under the rock! Once you're in the large cave, you traverse out the left side, then up towards your toprope anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Goat Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning fog burning off from the top of Goat Rock....
Morning fog burning off from the top of Goat Rock....
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling to set up a toprope on the great roof
Rappelling to set up a toprope on the great roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Day hiker sitting at bolts for Center Overhang
Day hiker sitting at bolts for Center Overhang

Comments on Goat Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 26, 2017
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 25, 2002
I'd say the actual rock is closer to 110' than 80', though the climbing only reaches up to about 80'.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2002
This rock used to be popular with army rappeller types. Once a guy in a camouflage outfit scared the shit out of me as he jumped face first off the big overhang, I thought he was committing suicide. But he was doing one of those face first raps, the first 10' in free fall.
By T. Maino
From: Denver, CO
Jul 3, 2002
Led this in the 80's. There was an old bolt before and after the lip's jug. They looked ancient then. Are they still there?
By Raphael Varieras
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 23, 2012
Coordinates for goat rock are: 37.228216, -122.107891
By Manny Segovia
From: Sacramento, California
Apr 7, 2014
Just went out there yesterday, seems legit. bring some long slings to tr tho (20 ft) or a static. you can anchor to a huge bulge for the 3 problems on the right and for the 5.5 and 5.6 i saw someone slinging the bulge and clipped in to one anchor set far back. for the 5.9 and 10 routes right next to each other bring some imagination and ingenuity to set the tr. the rest of the problems to the left are protected with good anchors. The Bay Area Rock book shows that all the climbs are anchored but those bolts have been removed. there's one bold still there but its suuuper rusty. I'm not crazy enough for that haha. It seems super cruiser tho. have fun. the place was packed when we were there so no climbing for us this time :(
By JCG22
Dec 20, 2015
The anchor, consisting of a set of what appears to be new bolts in line from horn to face are compromised. The nut on left bolt is loose and bolt moves around in hole. Pics for reference.

Rock Climbing Photo: Sketchy bolt
Sketchy bolt

Rock Climbing Photo: Removal by hand
Removal by hand
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Dec 23, 2015
Looks like a SS wedge anchor to me. Usually pretty bomber even with a loose nut. (Sometimes the hanger gets torqued from different angles and loosens the nut although the bolt is still seated) However the amount of thread above the nut in the first pic concerns me. The rock may have been soft in that spot and the sleeve of the wedge bolt may have had a hard time wedging itself. Remember that shear strength is relatively high compared to pullout strength (outward). I bet whoever comes back to tighten this bolt up will be able to keep cranking on it till they run out of threads. Sometimes glue-ins are more popular in softer sandstone. Those wind eroded pockets, huecos, and caves were made by just that-- wind. Probably somewhat soft stone in spots.
By pdao
From: San Francisco
Sep 12, 2016
Noticed yesterday that some of the hangers on the anchors on top of climber's right of Goat Rock have been removed.
By Ben LC
From: San Francisco
Nov 12, 2016
Went today and most the bolts to setup a top rope AND the ones to lead are gone. Alternatives are to come from the side and build natural anchors on some of the rock's features or to bring very long static rope (50-100ft) to attach to the tree or the very top of the rock
By Yevgeniy Zebrov
May 24, 2017
Swiss cheese is missing the toprope bolts, and the second anchor point at the top is missing one of the bolts as well. Looks like someone unscrewed them.
By Logan Stoneman
Aug 26, 2017
Many bolts have been unscrewed as part of a replacement project by a volunteer group. Got this info from a state park ranger Not sure how long this project has taken, but as of yesterday, these routes do not have bolts:
- Dragon's Breath
- Triple Overhang
- Center Overhang Left
- Center Overhang
- Swiss Cheese Direct
- Swiss Cheese Right

The Great Roof route still has bolts and if you have long slings you can create an anchor for Soute Arete. The slings might also give you access to the Swiss Cheese routes.

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