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Goat Heaven 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 700', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: bsmoot on Sep 25, 2007

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Climbs far right line

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1- Climb a short face past a bolt. Diagonal up & right past cracks & flakes to a natural pro. belay at some bushes.
P2- Diagonal again up the face past a bolt. Traverse right to a belay in bushes at a bolt at the far right edge of the big roof above.
P3- climb up to a cool finger crack which is followed back left and up to belay bolts.(5.7 or 5.8)
P4- Ascend the smooth face past bolts to a fixed belay just past a roof.
P5- Scramble past the midway ledge/bushes to a belay on the beautiful low angle slab.
P6- Climb past 2 bolts to a fixed belay at a small roof.
P7- Climb the moderate slab to a belay under the roof at 3 bolts. Rap Super Crack with 2 ropes.

Location 

Right side of Super Slab

Protection 

Small rack of small & medium cans


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By James Garrett
Oct 4, 2007

FYI,Both Goat routes end at the 3 bolt belay. One wonders at first why they elected to install 3 bolts here, but Brian informed me it was wet that day and they were concerned wuth longevity and seeking a place under an overhang where the gear would stay fairly dry.

Also, one notices a huge length of chain (like 20feet!) directly about 50 feet across to the left of this anchor. I couldn't figure out what this was, and first thought it was for the ice climbing in the winter. I was incorrect, and after talking with Brian, it was installed to secure a huge boulder up there! It would be a killer, for sure, so thanks to Jonathan and Brian for doing this. Much appreciation! Please do not think, as I first did, that it was alot of chain waiting to be kipped....it does serve a purpose!
By zoso
Sep 8, 2011

There's more fixed gear than Bryan mentions. We found:
P1: 2 bolts, 1 pin
P2: ditto, rap anchor(2bolts) @ end
P3: bolt, 2 pins in crack (quite vegetated--bummer)
P4: 4 bolts
P5: 1 pin marking where you climb thru the trees
P6: 2 bolts
P7: 3 bolts

Used sm/med nuts, 00 to #3 camalot, long runners, and draws.

Be prepared for some stimulating bolt spacing on P7 especially, as the rock is really polished. Also, there was a water/slippery moss crossing before the belay on P2--good times.

Thanks Smoots.
By Caleb Blakely
Sep 12, 2014

This is the biggest climb I've ever done and it was a blast! A few notes:

P2: When I climbed there was water running down the rock just below the anchors of the second pitch. The rock was super slick. There is a horizontal crack above it that you could place pro in and traverse if you wanted.

P3: The pitons are in the grassy horizontal crack, easy to miss and sketchy if you do.

P7: I missed the top rappel anchors because they aren't on the slab, they're on the roof behind a small tree. I ended up doing a traverse left to the Fallen Goat anchors and rappelling from there.

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