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Tarot Wall
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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
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Wheel of Fortune S 

Goat F***er 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Fettbrod, fall 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,616
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 28, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: The route is on a short wall just above the cutoff...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


There is a route between the cut-off trail that goes left to the Tarot Wall and up on the Wall Of The Dead. It really isn't on the Tarot Wall. On the left, while hiking between the two, you can see 2 bolts going up past a vertical quartz dike to a ledge (obvious mantle) and a 2-bolt anchor. This climb is harder than it looks at first, but easier than it feels at first.

Two pumps and out is how the route goes. It has fun moves though. With a better landing, it could have been a classic boulder problem.

This route was installed and redpointed by Matt Fettbrod in the fall of 2002. The original name is Goat F***er - a reference to a local Italian baker's penchant for bestiality. The shortest route in Boulder Canyon?


2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Jun 27, 2007

I pulled a brick-sized chunk up above the last (2nd) bolt. Doesn't look like there is much more that could come off though.
By Mingus
May 29, 2009

Yikes, we did this last night after Free Fall and it felt substantially harder. Maybe I was just powered down by then but this felt like V5 at the time.
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Jul 24, 2010

.11d? Hardest one in Boulder Canyon. There's a scar where a flake pulled off. I wonder if that made a difference; I couldn't pull the move, felt harder than .12b.
By tbol
From: Front Range, CO.
Oct 27, 2015
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Matt told me a few key holds have broken off of this. I had to drag him out there to try the route, because he was convinced it was 11d. What a sandbag! I think it is solid upper 12. It is just as hard or harder than any of the other 12s at Avalon. One friend called it V8, but that is a little much. Not quite a 5.13.

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