Go For Broke
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After leading it, we set this route for TR (yes, l...
This route is on the left of the face. It is identified by a flake at the base of the climb (about 20 feet up, above an easy slab).
Head up to the flake and climb its righthand crack to the top of the flake. Steep tricky face moves lead to easy runout cruising. Moving from the final bolt is the crux and will make you stop and think.
A good introduction to the face.
Medium cams for the flake and belay, 3 bolts (3/8")
Ham dogging it (yes, pun very much in tended)!
Placing only two pieces of pro (one cam (#2) towar...
By Woody Stark
Dec 15, 2004
This route is badly sandbagged at eight. I give it 10a/b. If someone doubts this, go climb it; it's a fine route. It's possible, of course, that holds have broken off over the years.
By Andrew Ingals
Mar 12, 2017
I climbed this route on 3 Feb 2017 and noticed the second to last bolt was a full on spinner! I had to hand tighten it before proceeding onward and upward. Not exactly confidence inspireing, I suppose, but certinaly added a hint of "acceptable" danger. Definitely felt a bit more difficult than 5.8, but then again, J Tree slab is a different beast in and of itself. ;)