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Go Back to the Gym 

A3

   
Type:  Aid, 90'
Original: A3 [details]
FA: 
Season: most of the year, aid climbing wet rock is doable
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Jonathan Croom on Feb 19, 2017

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Description 

While your friends are pulling down on the awesome steep sport routes on Bat Wall, you could be aid climbing right next to them!

The first pitch of Go Back to the Gym follows a seam left of Dracula to a sloping ledge and rusted, two bolt anchor. There is supposedly an A4 hooking pitch above this; if anyone has more beta on this and how it fits in with the newer sport routes, please feel free to add info to the page.

I have only done the first pitch, which ends at two bolts with tat and hangers that are rusted halfway through. I would highly recommend not rapping off of these, although they held bodyweight for me. Instead, pendulum to the bolts to the right, and aid these to a new beefy anchor. (If doing this, don't hook on the flexing hold getting from the last bolt to the anchors. It would kinda suck for anyone working that route if a hold broke from people aiding it. There's a lower edge to hook that is solid.)

Location 

Look for two rusted bolts with old tat. Figure out a way to get to them.

Protection 

I used:

2 grey C3's
singles .3-.5

2 small angles
1 short arrow
2 blades
1 med beak

1 hook at finish

If roped soloing, bring extra .3-.5 gear for an anchor at the base.


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