BETA PHOTO: The rock from the west.
The Gnome dome is a small rock (about 75 feet high) just off of Road 550. The climbing is on the west face so it sees afternoon sun and morning shade. All descents are walk offs to the climbers right.
There is quite a bit of lichen on the lower face and the rock quality in the cave area is a little dubious. Give the proximity to the road it appears that this rock gets very little traffic.
Follow the directions to Buffalo Creek Area. Turn down road 550 and follow it for about 1.3 miles. There will be a parking area on your right. Park and start hiking east (downhill), with the total hike being about 400-500 yards. One can just make out the rock from the parking area.
Climbing Season For the Buffalo Creek area.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For Gnome Dome
Fat Monkey's Birthday 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Colorado
: South Platte
: ... : Gnome Dome
Fat Monkey's Birthday combines the first pitch of 'Fat Head' and the second pitch of 'Leave my monkey alone'. Take the obvious crack line from the lower face up through the upper roof.Pitch 1: Follow the right trending flake / crack up through the lower face to the "cave". From here you can either exit through a hole in the back of the cave or continue on to pitch 2. There is a bit of lichen on the lower part and the rock gets a bit granular towards the top of this pitch (A little more traffi...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
BETA PHOTO: On top a da Gnome Dome... you can see this side of...
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the rock.
By Matt Juth
May 25, 2004
When I climbed there 4 or 5 years ago it was a popular paint ball war zone! Look out, you might get pelted. The rock is a little dirty, and pulling out the roof on 'Leave my Monkey Alone' is made difficult by all the nubs and little flakes popping off. Fun climbs when you've got a couple hours to burn.
By Jay Eggleston
Aug 4, 2015
When approaching from where you park, go east and downhill but a little to the right as well. You cross a small stream/drainage on the way. I went too far left at first. The rock is a great place to top rope if you are so inclined.