BETA PHOTO: The rock from the west.
The Gnome dome is a small rock (about 75 feet high) just off of Road 550. The climbing is on the west face so it sees afternoon sun and morning shade. All descents are walk offs to the climbers right.
There is quite a bit of lichen on the lower face and the rock quality in the cave area is a little dubious. Give the proximity to the road it appears that this rock gets very little traffic.
Follow the directions to Buffalo Creek Area. Turn down road 550 and follow it for about 1.3 miles. There will be a parking area on your right. Park and start hiking east (downhill), with the total hike being about 400-500 yards. One can just make out the rock from the parking area.
Climbing Season For the Buffalo Creek area.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For Gnome Dome
Fat Head 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Colorado
: South Platte
: ... : Gnome Dome
This is a fun crack that has good hand and fist jams. The feet are not great, but there is a good rest foot hold in the middle of the climb. There is lots of lichen on the rock. At the top, the crack forces you to traverse to the cave below the crack on Leave My Monkey Alone. You could join this climb, but it is harder, 10c in difficulty. The hardest part seems to be about 3/4s of the way up near the start of the traverse....[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
BETA PHOTO: On top a da Gnome Dome... you can see this side of...
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the rock.
By Matt Juth
May 25, 2004
When I climbed there 4 or 5 years ago it was a popular paint ball war zone! Look out, you might get pelted. The rock is a little dirty, and pulling out the roof on 'Leave my Monkey Alone' is made difficult by all the nubs and little flakes popping off. Fun climbs when you've got a couple hours to burn.
By Jay Eggleston
Aug 4, 2015
When approaching from where you park, go east and downhill but a little to the right as well. You cross a small stream/drainage on the way. I went too far left at first. The rock is a great place to top rope if you are so inclined.