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GM Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Gibson, Greg Markov
Page Views: 7,457
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006

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The second pitch of G-M goes up the corner right o...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


A fun route with great rock and varied climbing.

Right of the tunnel is a large flake. To the right of this flake notice the ledge going across to the right, about 20-feet up. (The ledge become a large ramp on the right-most side where it intersects the hillside.) The first pitch starts at the two-bolt anchor about 1/3 of the way across this ledge.

To reach the start, you have a few choices. The easiest is to hike up the trail to the left of the ledge and then walk out the ledge. Some parties may not want a rope to get to the bolted anchor, but if the ledge is wet, it might be nice to have a short belay.

P1: (5.8+) Climb up the corner past a bolt to a long ledge. Traverse to the left end of the ledge, where you will find a bolted belay by the tree. Uses face and layback moves plus the occasional jam. Protects well with nuts and cams.

P2: (5.9) Continue directly up the corner and then up an easier flake section. This pitch can take big gear to protect the easier section, but cams to 3" would be fine for those comfortable at the grade. The moves between the corner and the crack/flake above can be hard.

P3: (5.9)Head left and then up a crack to bolts at the top.

A fun variation is to follow the crack up and right from the belay (Heart of the Country, 10b).

Descent: Rap the route. You can reach the ground from the top of the second pitch with 2 60-m ropes.


Standard trad rack to 4 or 5" be sure to bring at least 2 big pieces (e.g. #4 and #5 camalots) for the second pitch. All belays/rap stations are bolted. Make sure to have runners for the first pitch to help reduce rope drag.

Photos of GM Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at P2
Looking up at P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing just above the overlap on P2 of GM.
Climbing just above the overlap on P2 of GM.
Rock Climbing Photo: JP busting the roof move, pitch 2, GM route
JP busting the roof move, pitch 2, GM route
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch of G-M.
Second pitch of G-M.

Comments on GM Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 19, 2017
By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 13, 2006

There is a great varition from the top of the 5.10b pitch on heart of the country that continues for about 40 more feet. The Cramer guide calls it 11a, but its not any harder than 5.10 with great gear.
By john stiles
From: Bellingham
Aug 12, 2006

i agree with jesse, the final pitch on hoc is 10. the last 3 pitches are short and link up easily with a 60 making it a great full-value pitch.
By 8jimi8 Clary
From: rapid city, SD
Sep 3, 2006

i'll second the full value.

and i'll have seconds please.

John thanks for showing us the route, say hey to Michelle :)
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 15, 2007

I don't think the big gear is all that necessary on the 2nd pitch. I think I placed a #3 and #4 camalot on that pitch. If you look around there are some options.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Oct 27, 2008

If the right hand start is wet, I'd suggest scrambling around from the left. We climbed the right hand side and the ledge was wet, leave covered, and downright scary for both the leader and follower.
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 27, 2010

looked at this today, the sloping ledge 30 feet above sharp flakes scared us off. is there a easier way to get up? also, how many people solo the 5.10 direct start? getting into the route looked super sketch
By Eric Fjellanger
Jun 6, 2011

As sqwirll says, scrambling in from the left is easy. I would almost always do that before the right-hand approach.

The direct "boulder problem" seemed much harder than the 5.10c Cummins's guide gives it, even on TR.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Sep 30, 2012

The ground can be reached in two raps with a single 70m form the top. Or 3 raps if you want, but it definitely works. All the stars if you do the heart of country pitch which is phenomenal. Don't stop on the ledge, just keep going up the crack for more of the same for the "variation."
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

While I do appreciate the re-bolting effort on this route, it would have been nice to see the old bolts chopped rather than leaving them in place right next to the new, good ones.

For locals, someone ought to take a breaker bar and some epoxy up that route when they think of it and chop the old studs and patch the holes.
By Benjamin Pontecorvo
From: Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2014

My buddy began the right hand start today (it was soaking wet but the cracks above were dry), and slipped and fell on the ledge BEFORE traversing to clip the anchor roughy 16-18 ft to the deck. He was either very lucky or very good at sliding down wet slabs and walked away very shaken and some bad bruises. We agreed he was fortunate as he could have broken a bone or worse. Needless to say we should have ventured left or not at all
By RodrigoB
May 17, 2016

Good fun. Singles of 3" and 4" gear (no 5") for P2 is sufficient if the lead is even somewhat comfortable at 5.9. Also, the ledge approach from the left side of the ledge is easy and largely free of loose stuff. Go that way.
By Tavish Hansen
From: Seattle, Washington
Mar 19, 2017

The final 8 feet or so of laybacking on the 2nd pitch requires a #5 C4 if you want to protect it, but there are super bomber chickenheads for footholds and I would say it was the easiest part of the pitch. I had 2 #3s, a #4, and a #5 and placed all of them including bumping the #4 for about 10 feet, but it would definitely still have been safe with just a #3 and #4.

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