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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1970: Helmut Microys and Eric Marshall
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: teresamatrix on Oct 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Climb the large right facing corner 35 feet to the right of Hi Corner and 10 feet left of Nemesis. At the overhangs 25 feet up, step left onto a dirty ledge and go up (there is a tree there and it might be best to negotiate your rope/yourself to the right of the tree). Carefully continue up some loose and scary flakes, zig-zagging a bit for solid pro. The rock gets more solid as it gets steeper at the top (crux) of the pitch. The end is the same belay/rap station as the first full pitch of Nemesis.


Big right facing corner 35 feet right of Hi Corner and 10 feet left of Nemesis.


standard rack to 2 in.

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By Daniel Cassidy
From: Gardiner, NY
Jul 24, 2015

I did this climb today without much knowledge of it. The climbing is actually pretty fun and interesting, however, there is a huge leaning boulder that you must climb on top of (pretty scary). After the large boulder there are lots of loose flakes that are ready to blow. the higher you get, the better the rock quality gets. The roof right before the first belay is pretty crimpy (at least the way that I went). The fixed anchor is questionable although there seems to be some new webbing on it
By Kurtz
Sep 6, 2015

A Glyptodon...

Rock Climbing Photo: Glyptodon
By EricBacus
From: Germantown, NY
Sep 1, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

From the right facing corner I just went to the very top in one pitch. Its an easy and kinda run out start which leads to a flake fest above the first ledge then into a fun roof finish.

There is a solid rap/belay tree at the top which you would need two ropes to get down to the ground and our 70m rope got us to a wonky final rap. I don't think a 60m would get you down unless you trust the even wonkier nut rap under the crux.

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