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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1956: John Wharton and Dave Isles FFA: John Turner and Craig Merrihue
Page Views: 1,718
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Starting corner of Glypnod


1. Climb the crack in the corner to a ledge (5.7). Move up left into the large right facing, right leaning corner. Pass a large pine tree (or rappel). Then up the the GT ledge and belay under the right facing corner.

2. Up the corner and make hard moves past the overhang into another corner. Exit left under the next overhang and finish up right to the top.


Start in the large right facing corner to the left of Anguish, 80 feet left of Three Pines.


Standard Gunks rack.

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By akline
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

The initial corner is very fun, then you have to climb some run-out 5.4 to the GT and belay under the right facing corner.
The last pitch of this is burly. It felt like hard Gunks 5.9 to me, with an MF-quality pump factor. The gear is great on the last pitch though. Overall the whole climb was dirty, but I think with some travel this would be a great route, and unique for the Gunks because of the crack climbing.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011

Wow, I found this climb to be dirty, grassy and not much fun. It seems like the climb is always wet and dank. If you are into adventure routes or atypical gunks routes this may be for you. To me it felt like an adirondack adventure.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The first and last pitches are worth doing with great gear. It was dry on a warm January day, but I could see the first pitch being damp at other times. The crux on pitch 3 is good, pumpy, well-protected fun.

The second pitch can be linked to the first with doubles or long slings and thoughtful rope management, but is not particularly interesting. It had some loose spots, but there was gear to be had. Not sure I'd call it "R", perhaps PG-13 if not just PG.
By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Jun 7, 2012

1993. The first pitch was short but sweet. P2 was lichen covered and looked decidedly loose. No thanks. Rapped down.
By Kurtz
Aug 18, 2013

Climbed it during a dry week, no wet spots. We went pretty much straight up to the GT rather than taking the path of least resistance. This made the middle section about 5.7 PG. A little lichen but no big deal.

The opening moves off the GT are definitely the crux. Get pro in as high as you can before cranking it. Smooth sailing after that. Walked right to Three Pines rapp.

A tad dirty but the route just needs more traffic. A fun climb if you're up for a little adventure.

What's a Glypnod? According to John Turner, his second's (guess that would be Merrihue) girlfriend named it. She was reading Anglo-Saxon at Radcliffe/Harvard and said the name meant "frightened".
By Peter Bayers
Nov 3, 2013

Akline is right. Final pitch is no 5.8. I say 5.9+. Super strenuous lay-back with no feet out right.
By Olivier
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

P1, Nice good pro, was dry for us. p2 (linked) easy fun, some loose rock, thread delicately. P3 Wow! Loved it. super pro, good 8, solid rock.
By Adam Fernandez
From: Matawan NJ
May 24, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I have to toss in my agreement that Pitch 2 is not 5.8, the gear is great but the pump factor is high and the moves over the roof are on less than stellar holds. I would be ok calling P2 5.9. Overall the climb isnt worth going out of your way for.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2014

P1 (up to the little tree)is very fun, excellent gear. Would be a good lead for someone breaking into the 7's. It's a little bit strenuous through the crux, but, not overly so. Did I mention it eats gear? P2 is 5.4 with some suspect rock and spaced gear. Tread carefully. P3 is the money pitch, but it's over quickly. very fun, worth doing once.

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