|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Greg Hand & Kent Lugbill, 25 April 2012|
|Submitted By:||Greg Hand on Apr 25, 2012|
|Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Gluten Free||Add Comment|
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By Mark Roth
Jun 28, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
|Great route! Still a little dirty but super fun. Climbs way harder than it looks. I never saw where the #3 would go? If you can manage the crux, you would be fine without any supplemental gear. I placed a #0.5 Camalot before the anchor and noticed other possible placements as well, but not for the #3....|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout.
Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such.
To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the last bolt and the anchor.