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Gluing a big flake...
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Oct 18, 2012
I'm posting this here to ask what other people's stance is on this ethic and if it is to be done, how to do it properly. I'll explain the situation first and what my opinion is...

My friend found some boulders about a year ago in an already established area. These boulders have good, quality climbs on them far away from the main trail, so not in an area that is frequented by hikers at all, if ever. We found one block in particular that has excellent rock and a huge starting flake that is about 90% disconnected. It is solid, and we can tug on it pretty hard, but it flexes and I fear for the first person who comes along and tries it that isnt 130 lbs like myself. The line is good, the hold could be reinforced with glue without being an aesthetic detraction, and it will probably be a great climb for people to enjoy for years to come.

Am I missing something here, or is this still substantially less impact than drilling metal into a wall to climb it? I in no way support gluing 99% of the time, but I'd hate to rip this flake off and ruin a potentially nice line.
Zane Dordai
Joined Feb 21, 2011
55 points
Oct 18, 2012 might want to ask around locally, as the ethics vary from area to area. The ethic is different in Joshua Tree, CA then in New Jack City, CA. Personally, if you do it well, I don't see an issue with it, but where you're climbing it may not agree with the prevailing standards. Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Joined Jan 2, 2007
12,592 points
Mar 11, 2013
whats meant to be is meant to be...HUGE starting flake??? wtf?? let it snap, dont you fucking dare drizzle glue on rock boulderbum
From NY
Joined Feb 25, 2011
0 points
Mar 11, 2013
In Colorado you have to glue all of the holds on. It's the local ethic. GhaMby Eagan
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
130 points
May 8, 2013
ive personally found many new areas and done literally hundreds of first ascents. ive put up sport and trad routes but mostly boulder problems and i have never used glue. i also (of frkn course) do not ever manufacture holds. break the flake and see whats left. either it wont be climbable or it will be a bit harder maybe. sometimes it even gets easier, just different. glue on rock ive seen a lot of times does not always hold. it gives a false sense of security. if it does break it will also leave a large mess of glue on that spot as a testament to the weakness of mind and body of the boulderers of the past who did it. so dont do it however tempting it may be.
From santa rosa, cali
Joined Jan 1, 2002
1,260 points

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