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Second Sella Tower
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Fata Morgana T 
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Glueck Dihedral 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Franz Glueck, 1930.
Season: Dry conditions.
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 14, 2014

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The Kostner and Glueck routes share a short and easy-5th class pitch to a sanduhr secured belay stance. After a few moves the routes divide and Glueck heads up and right for about 20 meters to a ledge with a piton anchor. Pitch 3 is the lonhg dihedral pitch protected by ~ 6 pitons, on rock approaching 5.7 in difficulty. (5.6/5.7). This section is continuously solid climbing at that level. On the final pitch the difficulty eases to around 5.5 on a steep slab staying left of a groove/gully system, finishing directly on the summit of the Second Sellaturm.


On the Southwest face of the Second Sella Tower are 3 major crack systems, and the left two are in prominent dihedrals. The left dihedral is home of the Kostner route already described elsewhere on the website. The center system is the Glueck Dihedral, and the right crack is the Rechter Riss (Right Crack). Descend to the First Sellaturm descent trail and follow that back to the trail to Sella Pass (involves several short abseils).


Some natural protection ("sandhurs, or hourglass formations tied off), and numerous fixed pitons on the 3rd lead or crux pitch. Cemented piton anchors in spots, but not all. Bring a standard Alpine light rack with plenty of quick draws and longer runners.

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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 14, 2014

The website grading comparisons between YDS and UIAA Alpine needs some refinement here; this route is realistically either upper-end 5.6 or lower-end 5.7, which I've indicated as 5.6/5.7 and should be a UIAA IV+.

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