REI Community
Cactus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affluenza S 
Afterburner S 
Agave S 
Alexi's Climb S 
Alignment, The S 
Almost French S 
Almost Gothic S 
Amiga S 
Are You Experiential? S 
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 
Axis of Evil S 
Banana Split S 
Barbed Wire Love S 
Beach Ball S 
Beef Cake Formula S 
Bionic Minnow S 
Black Slabbeth S 
Blackman's Burden S 
Blade Runner S 
Blarney Stone, The S 
Blond Princes S 
Bombodido S 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 
Bur-Har-Bur S 
Cactus Cliff Addict S 
Candy for Big Kids S 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 
Cellulite District T,TR 
Centurion Enigma S 
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 
Child's Play S 
Chompin' at the Cholla S 
Christmas Tree S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Cobra S 
Commitment S 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 
Crimpson Candy S 
Critic's Choice S 
Cro-Magnum S 
Crynoid Corner S 
Cure For The Common Crimp S 
Da Fly S 
Dances with Cholla S 
Dereliction Affliction S 
Dihedrus S 
Divinity School S 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 
Early Bird S 
Escalando S 
Et Tu, Brutus S 
Fantasia S 
Fast Food Nation S 
Fiscal Cliff S 
Fishisms T 
Flight of the Phoenix S 
French Are Here, The S 
Fully Equipped S 
Funkdemental S 
Gabby S 
Glass Babies S 
Glue Slippage S 
Good Red Road, The S 
Gravitations S 
Great Expectations S 
Hair Trigger S 
Half Breed S 
Hero Driver S 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 
Hot Beach S 
Hurricane Hinzi S 
I Claudius S 
I Lean S 
I'm Having A Vision S 
Ian's Climb S 
Illegal Smile S 
Impulsive Hands S 
Institutional Meat S 
Jamuary S 
Joy of Cholla, The S 
Jumpin' the Gun S 
Just Thesenga It S 
Kalahari Sidewinder S 
Killer Toupee, The T,S 
King Louie's Traverse S 
Kipu Pockets  S 
Kodachrome S 
La Temperatura de Shelf S 
LaCholla Jackson S 
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 
Legend on the Fall S 
Leisure Class S 
Manly Bulges S 
Midget Toss S 
Misalignment S 
Morning Joe S 
Mr. Fred T,TR 
Muscle Beach S 
New Ethics S 
New World Order S 
Ol' 47 S 
Oscar de la Cholla S 
Out There Take Anything S 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 
Part Muffalo S 
Pick Pocket S 
Politically Incorrect S 
Poquito Mas S 
Puff Daddy S 
Purple Corner T 
Quarterback S 
Quasi Quasar S 
Raven, The S 
Reach Around, The S 
Red Eclipse S 
Red Giant T 
Redman's Burden S 
Relampago S 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 
Risky Business S 
Shelf Pride S 
Short Man's Burden S 
Six More Bottles of Bosco S 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 
Slicer S 
Solar Eclipse S 
Southern Belle S 
Spray Lord S 
Squeeze the Moment S 
Stand, The S 
Super Suka S 
Sweet Sam S 
Third Stage S 
Three-Quarter Ton S 
Thumbs Up S 
Tits Up S 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 
Total Recount S 
Totally Blonde S 
Turkey's Bleak T 
Two For One S 
Under A Blood Red Wall S 
Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 
Usual Suspects, The S 
Utter To A Scream S 
Wadsworth Boulevard S 
White Punks on Pockets S 
Whiteman's Burden S 
Working Man S 
World Peace S 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 

Glue Slippage 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Johnson, Dale Goddard, 1985
Page Views: 1,593
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (1) Man-tasia is now named Pi...


About 50 feet to the left of the Tits Up/Hot Beach area on the left side of Cactus is a nice section of cliff with a distinct bulge about 30 feet off the ground. Two routes climb this section of cliff with the left route being Da Fly (13a). The right route that shares the same start with Da Fly is Glue Slippage.

After climbing the scary loose start of Da Fly, move slightly right to a ledge system below the bulge. Move up to the bulge (tricky), and then make burly moves along an overhung, right-trending seam with difficult clipping stances (crux). At the top of the seam, move left onto a thin headwall with sustained climbing to the anchors.

This is a Cactus Cliff three star, for out-of-the-ordinary steepness for Shelf and historical reasons (since it is rumored to be the first route at Shelf).


8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Glue Slippage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux bulge
the crux bulge

Comments on Glue Slippage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stefan Griebel
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 22, 2007

This climb looks great from the ground, but compared to the many other great climbs at Cactus Cliff, I felt this one was mediocre. It starts with 25' of chossy, easy climbing. The next 3-4 bolts up the steep arcing crack feature are fantastic and pretty hard. The final crux involves (for me) pulling on a hollow-sounding Frisbee-sized flake. I predict that this flake will soon be tossed just like a Frisbee thus making the route a bit harder. Due to the chossy start, creaky flake, and non-sustained overall nature, I can only give this climb 1 star. The star is earned by the fun and hard moves up the crack with a touch of historical perspective.
By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Nov 12, 2007

Anyone climbing at this level will certainly understand the subtlety of pulling down rather than out when they reach the "Frisbee" in question. Certainly this route is better than one star. Not a classic, but very good, and well worth doing, especially for the unique lower crux.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Apparently it's just me, but I thought this route was awesome. True, the first 20 feet aren't classic, but that goes for many a route at shelf. The crux moves are full value; unique, techy, powerful and fun. The top lets off somewhat, but is sustained and keeps you on your toes. This one got me syked up and smiling.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Finally sent this one after trying it here and there for a few years. Still feel the same, this is an awesome route. I did not, however, come across any frisbee-sized flakes near the top, and there was definitely a redpoint or at least onsight crux up there. There were a few hollow sounding holds at the rest in the middle, but it's easy to tread lightly on them. If you're tired of just pulling on crimps and pockets, this is the one for you!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jan 20, 2015

It is baffling to me that this was the "first sport route" at Shelf...
By Nate Liles
Apr 28, 2016

Rebolted in 2016. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA, consider a donation today @
I think the mixed reviews on this one mainly come from the large amount of choss that was left uncleaned very close to the bolt line. I removed a couple hundred pounds worth (does not affect the climbing), this route climbs beautifully and deserves the attention.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About