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Gloria's

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Gloria's Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 35.232, -111.6245 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,726
Administrators: Greg Opland, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Ryder on Dec 5, 2007
Forecast:
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The late Rob Drysdale cranking at Gloria's probabl...

Description 

Gloria's is an extensive maze of boulders and low cliffs of dacite at the foot of Mount Elden, intertwined with caves and surrounded by a cool ponderosa forest. Largely developed by Bob Murray in the 80s, this area is a popular quick hit for locals due to its short approach and easy access from downtown Flagstaff. It's also popular among hikers, bikers, dog-walkers, and high school kids, with the graffiti and garbage to prove it.

The climbing tends to be thin and technical, with a good mix of old-school moderates and crimpy testpieces, though several bold modern lines exist. The Elden dacite (a silicic volcanic rock reminiscent of slick granite) is notoriously rough on the hands. A lot of the problems are quite tall and landings vary: while some are perfect, others are sketchy or truly scary. Many little-trafficked toprope routes exist on the cliffbands and larger boulders - bring an assortment of gear for natural anchors.

Rock Climbing Photo: Danny Mauz sending Fuzzy Tongue, Gloria's
Danny Mauz sending Fuzzy Tongue, Gloria's


Climbing at Gloria's is generally best in the spring and fall, but it is fairly easy to chase shade in the summer, and many of the problems outside the caves dry out quickly in the winter.

Getting There 

From downtown Flagstaff: Take San Francisco St. north through downtown until it intercepts Forest Ave. Make a right on Forest, pass Buffalo Park on the left (at some point Forest Ave. turns into Cedar), then make a left on West St. (there is a stoplight with a Safeway shopping center here.) Turn left on Paradise Rd. and park at the end of the cul-de-sac, careful not to block any driveways or mailboxes (this is a neighborhood, be respectful of the residents.) Walk through the fence and navigate the maze of trails, trending generally toward the base of Mt. Elden. Look for a silver metal pipe sticking out of the ground that marks a trail straight to the boulders. Approach about 5 minutes.

Guidebooks 

Tim Toula's A Cheap Way To Fly includes a bit of information and a topo, which is thorough but might be somewhat confusing for first-time visitors. A CD-R electronic guide is available from Vertical Relief that includes all the major problems with quality topos and color photos.

Climbing Season

For the Flagstaff Bouldering area.

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

36 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',11],['V6-7',8],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',2],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gloria's

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gloria's:
Ballet Dancer   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   An Undercling Thing / Burge...
Burger King   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   An Undercling Thing / Burge...
An Undercling Thing   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   An Undercling Thing / Burge...
Heart Cave   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 20'   Heart Cave and Surroundings
HCB - Cliffside Face   V6 7A     Boulder, 10'   Heart Cave and Surroundings
Cross-Eyed Nurse   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Peanut Area
The Peanut   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Peanut Area
Tombstone   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Far Left
Flyswatter   V8 7B     Boulder, 12'   Bill Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gloria's

Featured Route For Gloria's
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Ryder on the Gloria's super classic Peanut ...

The Peanut V8 7B  Arizona : Northern Arizona : ... : Peanut Area
Obvious, independent, super fun, and just hard enough. From the two-hand undercling, make a long move to a left hand edge. Grab the small pocket and jump for a good hold. Top out on knobs....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Gloria's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Colin Cox on An old project on the left side of th...
Colin Cox on An old project on the left side of th...

Comments on Gloria's Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 20, 2011
Named after long time local visionary Gloria Hardwick, who, as story has it had to convince the old boys that this stone was worthy...

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