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Glenlivet 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin, 2000
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: John Steiger on Apr 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Climbing Glenlivet with a new 70M rope

Description 

On the slabby face 25 or so feet left of Skyscraper is a line of 8 bolts with (fading) painted hangers. The first 5 are widely spaced, but there is good protection to be had in incipient cracks and horizontals. The crux section is short and well protected, around the 4th bolt if I remember right. The route veers close to Skyscraper mid-way, but it's a good line -- about as good as they get on the Upper S Curve. NB- Date of FA from Calderone's 2017 BCC guide, which rates this as 5.9+.

Location 

A 70m rope will get you down from good bolts on top. I don't think a 60m rope will do it, which would mean walking off to the west.

Protection 

Cams 1 1/2 inches and below, wired nuts, and slings.


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By Darren Knezek
May 22, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A super fun line with a tricky ending. It's called, Glenlivet and was FA'd by one of the strongest climbers I've ever climbed with. He's put up many of the routes in Utah and his name is............Jeff Baldwin.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 28, 2010

Did this one yesterday for the first time (its not in the Ruckman guide ya know). Similar quality to Skyscraper, highly recommended, thought-provoking, etc, etc, fun airy finish. Used four little cams to supplement. Rap hangars at the top. Bring a second rope to rap this and Skyscraper as the descent trail is not really a trail.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 21, 2012

You can just barely rap with a 60m rope into the corner and downclimb from there. If you attempt this, I recommend lowering (or single rope rapping) the first person and then clipping in to one of the ends during for the downclimb (to create drag). Also I was glad to have a 2 camalot to clip between two of the bolts.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 20, 2013

I usually climb trad in LCC and felt this to be on the soft end of 10a, but thoughtful and super fun. Was definitely worth taking some gear to supplement the bolts. We were fine rapping with a 70.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 13, 2015

Thought-provoking and full value fun! Even with gear, it is a slightly sporty lead. Felt standard 10a to me (LCC notwithstanding).

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