Glazed and Confused
||Trad, Mixed, 140'
|Original: ||M7+ PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Rone|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||256|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Rone on Dec 20, 2012|
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Climb the lower ice of Kama Bay Cakewalk for about 10m, step right onto a good ledge, then follow the crack that heads up from the right side of the ledge to the top. The route is somewhat sustained, but good stances can be found in a number of places. The crack is annoyingly flared, and is right-side-in for the most part which makes gear a bit tricky to place, because you have to lean to the the right to get a look at it. The gear was generally good, but was tedious to place because of the ice glaze that lined the crack, and covered the entire wall for that matter. The first crux is getting past a small triangular hole about 1/3rd height. The second is climbing off the ledge near the top, just to the right of the big roof. It's about a 15' runout from the ledge to the top, which is protected by a good (now fixed) stopper that I pounded in. I did get a 13cm screw upward in a thin vein of ice right at the top, As with many of the nearby routes, there is ice at the top, but it's thin, and ends rather abruptly.
This line is about half-way between Icebreakers and Icebreakers Arête, which on the south side of the deep Thermocules chimney. Rappel from the tree anchors.
Take a set of stoppers, a couple spectres, and cams, C3's to a number four Camalot, with doubles of 1, 2, and 3 Camalots. And five screws (2-16's, 2-13's, and 1-10cm). Once on top, walk back to one of the larger trees, where you will find a sling anchor.