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East Buttress T 
Glass House T 
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Glass House 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Micah Humphrey & Preston Rhea - 11.3.13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Preston Rhea on Nov 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Glass House topo.


Glass House takes a wandering line up the south side of east buttress of Torre De Mierda aiming towards an obvious dihedral a little more than half way up the route. Pitches 3 and 4 are classic and really fun. If the whole route were like them it would easily be a 3 star climb, but as it stands, they offer a nice break from meandering loose alpine climbing.

Pitch 1 - Start atop a blocky ledge and climb a broken face trending left to an overhang (5.8). Continue up a red ramp to where it ends. 60m

Pitch 2 - A wandering pitch over easy terrain. Start by moving off of the red ramp onto the face following the path of least resistance and generally aiming towards the dihedral. The pitch ends on a tallus covered ledge below a corner leading into the dihedral. Huge amounts of rope drag were encountered on this pitch; it may be worth breaking into two short pitches. 60m

Pitch 3 - A short pitch up a gorgeous corner crack to a ledge below the dihedral. 30m

Pitch 4 - The Dihedral! Great climbing up the obvious dihedral (5.8). Belay at the top of the dihedral in the chimney to mitigate rope drag for the next pitch. A stellar pitch! 35m

Pitch 5 - Two blocky and loose chimneys seperated by a tallus covered ledge. Easy climbing, but lots of very large loose blocks encountered. Caution is required! 30m


The route goes up the southern side of Torre De Mierda's east buttress. (The east buttress is easily identifiable by a large tombstone shaped recess on the toe of the buttress.) It starts 200' to the left (south) of the toe of the buttress on a blocky ledge.

To descend either downclimb (4-5th class) or rappel to either the notch to the north or the south of the southern summit of Torre De Mierda. Once in either notch, downclimb to the west down the gullies (3rd class).


The rack should consist of doubles in cams from .5-#2 and a single #3.

Photos of Glass House Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 4.
Looking down pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Micah cruising the dihedral on pitch 4.
Micah cruising the dihedral on pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: The corner on pitch 3.
The corner on pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Glass House.
BETA PHOTO: Glass House.
Rock Climbing Photo: Glass House on Torre De Mierda.
BETA PHOTO: Glass House on Torre De Mierda.

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