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El Caliente T 
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Crack or Lieback S 
Existential Exit T 
Glass Eye T 
Harlequin T,S 
just another sucker on the vine T,S 
Last Call T 
Late for Dinner T 
Make mine a bold one T 
One Eye T,S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Glass Eye 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lee Cunningham
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: geoff georges on Oct 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Glass Eye, continuing to the anchors for One Eye t...

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Description 

I am tempted to rate this route 5.9, this may be the most sandbagged 5.8 in Leavenworth, but in keeping with the guide book it will be a good challenge for the 5.8 leader.
I don't always tape up, but this is better with tape gloves.

Location 

After passing a very large roof along the Careno trail Glass Eye stands out as the nice looking vertical hand crack that arches up to the right.

Protection 

gear to 4". You may want 2 each Camalot #.5, #2, #3.
there is a bolt for the bolted face climb One Eye that you can clip up near the top
The old bolted anchor is a 20' traverse to the right and is 1/4" rusty bolts and old webbing.
You could also continue up One Eye at the bolt to another bolt above the ledge, to hand crack through a roof to a new SS anchor ( 10b).


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