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Glass Babies 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,096
Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Start 10 feet right of Gabby up an obvious, left-angling crack/slab. The crack get a little steeper up at the top. It crosses Gabby and shares 2 of its bolts at the mid point, and this is the crux, too. Knapp's book calls it 5.10c, but the photo here on MP states it is 5.9. It is more like 10c than it is 5.9.


It is 10 feet right of Gabby and left of Muscle Beach.


12 bolts plus anchor.

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 30, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route deserves more attention and stars. I thought it was better than Axis of Evil, by way of example. Awkward crux, but nice. This line is a good combo of jamming and holds.
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Feb 14, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Really enjoyed this line!

Side question: Anyone know what the route directly to the RIGHT is? It follows the crack system up the wall, but I can't seem to find the route information anywhere.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very fun climb! Awkward off-balance crux with a nice sense of accomplishment. Great finger locks!
From: Englewood, CO
Feb 4, 2013

Just heads up. The ENTIRE headwall is one HUGE, detached flake system. The anchors for this route are also placed in a large, detached block. The stuff seemed okay when banging on it while climbing, but it was still enough to make me not want to climb here again. It would be great if the anchor could be moved down to the main face just left of the crack onto solid rock.
By Leo L.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 10, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route was a fantastic way to end the trip to Shelf. Fun crack system and crimps all the way up moving to the left ever so slightly the whole way.
By Chet Butterworth
From: Chattanooga
Jan 8, 2015

I'm hoping the "awkward off-balance crux" was pulling the funky bulge mid(ish)way up where I ate it. Fun climb! and a humbling moderate.
By Rick Vermeil
From: Erie, CO
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A nice route with solid crack climbing technique required. It was definitely harder than the grade of 10c for me. The "awkward crux" of the route felt more like 11- than 10 to me, which would make sense, since the neighboring 11a "Gabby" apparently crosses this line and shares this section. I tried the crux a few different ways but was only able to make it by cranking on a sharp edge and fingertips crack to a very awkward deadpoint to the ledge. It is possible that being taller (I'm 5'9") allows you to reach through this crux and drops the grade, but I don't see it being much easier especially with bigger fingers that a taller guy would have. The rest of this route is in the mid-10 range, and I really liked the lieback moves up the crack past the last three bolts. It's a tall route, but I remember there being about 8 to 10 bolts to the anchor, not 12 as stated above unless I missed them.

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