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Glam Utopia 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sean Coburn, Brad Woolf, Jeff Jenkins, John Saunders
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Benandstuff on Mar 14, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The route from the big ledge.

Description 

Directly to the right of Gothic Groove, this climb follows the same 5.1 slab up to the big ledge, then takes a bolt-protected line up a clean slab face.

This is a 5.10 in the guide, but it felt on par with Gothic Groove to the left and Kitty Klitter to the right so I think 5.9 would be more fitting.

Location 

Directly right of Gothic Groove. From the base, look for the straight water groove surrounded by a couple of bulgy corners. It is obvious once you get to the large ledge.

Protection 

Pitches 1+2: some cams and stuff, somewhat sparse protection but also very easy.
Pitch 3: Bolts.


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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 21, 2017

FA was myself, Brad Woolf, Jeff Jenkins and John Saunders. Drilled on lead.

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