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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Steiger, Brad Smith, Nov. 1986
Page Views: 700
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Yeah, yeah, this route has an admittedly overly-dramatic name, but we wanted something classic to memorialize what we thought was a great route. Ironically, Gladiator apparently has faded into obscurity, perhaps another victim of Tucson's late-80s sport climbing surge, which by all accounts continues today. (EFR in Squeezing II gives it no stars; . . . dude, really?) We worked this from the ground up, consistent with the ethic just about to be swept aside, figuring the sequence out by taking repeated falls and lowering to a rest. I slightly remember there being a little suspect rock low on the route, but it has cool position, and from what I can recollect, the climbing is not so much burly as tricky and sequential, with height being an advantage.

Start up Histo, but break left at the top of the right-leaning, right-facing corner, up a crack toward a face protected by a bolt and pin.


Branches off left from Histoplasmosis.


Standard Tucson trad rack.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 24, 2011

Hey John, before you "Dude Really" me again I have been meaning to climb that route for some time and now that you have duded me I will get on it as soon as I am back from my elk hunt. As far as the lack of any stars that may be because I have never talked to anyone who ever climbed it or might have missed it when I was ttttypping. Thanks for the motivational comment.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 24, 2011

you guys kill me. :)

john- thanks for reviving some of the old classics. can't wait to get on some of them!
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 12, 2013

Attempted this route today. Glad I had a long runner to use on a blocky ledge for pro. I used an RP and a gray mastercam to keep it from being pulled off if I happened to fall trying to get to the bolt about 12 feet above the ledge. I didn't fall but I could not get past the bolt without down-climbing and traversing left to the pin. From there I could not get past it. Hmmm Will have to work on this problem.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 12, 2013

Nice you did it ground up John. That crux is burly and I didn't figure out the sequence. I was not sure where to move left into the corner. I went at the first chance but I ended up back to the right using holds on Histo where it moves a little left of the main weakness.

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