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Gladiator 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Chris Hill, 2002
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Milton Price on Sep 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Gladiator is a fun climb with a great roof crack on the last pitch. There is plenty of lichen in this area but the climbing tends to be pretty clean where it matters.

P1: climb splitter 5.8 wide-hands to a short loose section to a belay at a tree. This is a short pitch and is easily linked with p2.

P2: a fun, .10c, thin crack leads to a two bolt anchor.

P3: this is the goods. Climb a corner to the start of the roof. Using hand and fist jams work your way through the roof .11b. After the roof step right to a finger crack and head to the top.

Protection 

Rack up to a #4 Camalot and Doubles in hand sizes to #3 Camalot for the roof.


Photos of Gladiator Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott halfway out the P3 roof.
Scott halfway out the P3 roof.

Comments on Gladiator Add Comment
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By Scott Bennett
Oct 19, 2009

Fun roof, sullied by some bird crap.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Surprised that Gillett's book (or MP) doesn't describe the sketchiness of the second pitch. The rock quality is pretty poor (hanging sheet/flake sort of thing). The crack at the crux is smaller than silver TCU, and I was blindly trying to fish RPs into a parallel-sided, offset crack while in a tweaky layback. The 2 smallest Ballnutz might take the sting out of this a bit, but I would still consider it a somewhat serious pitch. The gear at your feet is probably ok (at least as good as the rock is), but there is also a ledge and a tree right below you.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Heinous amount of shit on the roof crack. Bring a Tyvek suit and some serious cleansing materials.
By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 10, 2010

Not sure why you would stop @ tree, but continue 1st P to 2 bolt anchor, spicy gear placements on upper face.
Roof has bat guano not bird poop, and, yeah, it's there in spades, but I was able to successfully bypass it w/o too much trouble. A toe hook really helped as well as a #4.5 Camalot. Once over the lip, have a red or green Camalot and a couple of small/med Aliens or equiv for the short 5.8 finish crack.
This roof has solidm flippin' jams, yeah!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2013

I thought P2 was solid enough - there are holds/gear to the right and left of the main crack if you look. P3 looked worse than it did a few years ago, and we decided not to go for it today. Will be back in long pants/sleeves/tape-gloves/dust mask/jumpsuit in the fall. Last thing I need is to push that yuck into open wounds (still have some from Unaweep last weekend). Looks pretty fantastic otherwise.
By Ed Krejcik
From: Broomfield, CO
May 30, 2016

I did not do P3 Either, but in reference to P2, yeah, I got 2 semi-solid, small nuts in the right crack and a worthless black Alien in the main crack. Got another small nut up higher in the crack above the Alien. Figured one of the pieces had to hold. Then I pulled the crux and it was not that bad. Not sure I'd call it 10c. Maybe the sketch factor makes it 10c.

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