Glacier Gorge Rock Climbing
Long's, Pagoda, and Chiefshead from Arrowhead.
The west slope of Long's Peak drops 3000 feet into a rugged basin at the head of Glacier Gorge known as the Black Lake Cirque. Some of the most impressive walls and spires in Rocky Mountain National Park are found here towering above fields of wild flowers, ice-scoured slabs and jewel-like lakes comprising an alpine paradise of exceptional beauty (except for the mosquitoes). The rim of Glacier Gorge is formed by Half Mountain, Storm Peak and Long's Peak on the east; Keyboard of the Winds, Pagoda Mountain and Chief's Head Peak on the south; and by McHenry's Peak, Powell Peak and Thatchtop Mountain on the west. Spearhead and Arrowhead are satellite or island peaks within the rim of the gorge.
Begin from the Glacier Gorge Bus Stop (Trailhead) and follow the Glacier Gorge Trail to Black Lake. A useful shortcut branches right from the main trail just after the 4th stream crossing (about .55 mile) and regains the main trail just east of the Loch Vale Junction. As soon as you cross the log bridge over Icy Brook, you are in Glacier Gorge. This great trail continues to Mills Lake, Jewel Lake and eventually to Black Lake. From Black Lake the trail climbs along a beautiful cascade SE into the basin above Black Lake. From here, cairns indicate the line of least resistance into the upper cirque.
There is also a steep path that leads to Shelf Lake and Solitude Lake. This trail (never built) breaks right from the Glacier Gorge Trail after about 4 miles in some old avalanche debris. Cross Glacier Creek on large flat boulders and the find the start to the trail in the trees. This is less than obvious.
Weather station 7.3 miles from here
65 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Glacier Gorge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Glacier Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Glacier Gorge:
Featured Route For Glacier Gorge
Syke's Sickle 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Colorado
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Spearhead
Amazing! Spearhead is located in Rocky Mountain National Park and is perched above Glacier Gorge. Spearhead is an 800 foot granite buttress that rises to a sharp point above the upper basin (past Black Lake). In the middle of the immense vertical wall is a right-arcing crescent roof dubbed the "Sickle". Syke's Sickle is a wonderful route that ascends several crack systems before arriving at the "Sickle". P1 ascends a 5.5, left-arcing, wide crack (easy to spot in the center of the wall), then uni...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado