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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: David Petree, Jon Regelbrugge
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Neil Rankin on Feb 28, 2017

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Removing the original compression bolts on Gizmosi...


This route is fantastic but is perhaps best attempted by the Moore's Wall cognoscenti. The gear is not sparse at the crux, but it is shallow and technical, and you'll need to run it a bit afterwards on pumpy climbing. I'd call it R because there is potential for a huge ripper after the crux, but it's more about keeping your wig on than difficult climbing at that point.

Gizmosis is a pretty face that has two bolts fairly close together starting at about twenty feet, just above a foot ledge. Begin down and right of the foot ledge and carefully scramble up to it. Very small brass protects clipping the first bolt.

From here, crimp through the two bolts and up to a discontinuous vertical crack splitting the featured face. Get gear where you can and stay above or even slightly right of the crack as it disappears. The crux is here, and it's all about getting the pro well enough to proceed through the pumpy climbing. Pulling out of the crux one can continue straight through or ape out left to a juggy ledge on steeper ground.

If you go left there is no gear until you can get your feet established on the ledge and get the excellent overhead pro in a horizontal. From here go up to the final bulge, and then pull over and mantle. A classic finish. After topping out there is no fixed anchor and no good way to lower without a bunch of webbing. I recommend bringing your partner up by slinging a tree about 15 feet back and extending your belay to the lip to avoid rope drag.


The ground is flat beneath the start and is a comfortable place to hang out. There is a wide dihedral just to the right of the start.


Gizmosis' name is a reference to the small cams (gizmos) needed to protect the crux. Take nuts, brass, and cams to a #2 friend.

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By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Feb 28, 2017

rad route!
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Feb 28, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

Wear your brown underwear for the finish on this one. That way no one will know...

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